Friday, April 24, 2015

Glendalough -- Ireland

Glendalough Round Tower
Glendalough represents iconic Irish countryside.  Nestled in a glaciated valley in the heart of County Wicklow, this serene valley boasts two lakes, monastic remains with a superb round tower, stone churches, and decorated crosses in an historical graveyard. Literally the name, Gleann Dá Loch, means “Valley of the Two Lakes.”

History
The early Christian ecclesiastical settlement was founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a hermit monk who died about 618 A.D.  A descendant of one of the ruling families of Leinster, he came to live at Glendalough (pronounced ‘glenda-lock’) as a young man.  According to legend, he lived a life of sleeping on stones, wearing animal skins, barely eating, and making friends with birds and animals.

By the 9th century, Glendalough rivaled only Clonmacnoise as one of the leading monastic cities in Ireland.  In its heyday, the settlement not only featured a monastery and monk cells, but also an infirmary, workshops, areas for manuscript writing and copying, guesthouses, farm buildings and houses.  Most of what survives today is from the 10th-12th centuries.

In 1214, the dioceses of Glendalough and Dublin were combined and the settlement fell into ruin destroyed by English forces in 1398.  The Feast of St. Kevin is celebrated on June 3.

Glendalough is currently a titular see in the Catholic Church.  It is used for bishops who hold no ordinary power of their own and thus are titular bishops.

Visiting Glendalough
Upper Lake at Glendalough
The two lakes at Glendalough are known as Upper Lake and Lower Lake, where the main entrance from the parking area, a visitor centre, the main monastic dwellings, and a hotel are located.  Walking trails connect the two lakes and other monastic sites.

Visible at Lower Lake are the double-arched medieval gateway; the Cathedral, the largest building; St. Kevin’s Cross with an unpierced ring; the reconstructed priests’ house; St. Kevin’s Church (or Kitchen) with its distinctive round belfry; foundations of St. Kieran’s Church; and the iconic round tower.

The round tower possibly served as a belltower, a place of refuge when under attack, and/or a storage facility.  It originally had six timber-floored stories with the doorway to the tower 3-1/2 meters above ground to protect those inside from intruders.

Small windows at the top face the four points of the compass, and stories were accessed by internal wooden ladders.  The conical roof was replaced in 1876 from original stones.

Additional monastic structures – St. Mary’s Church, the CaherReefert Church, and St. Savior’s Church – can be visited on the hike to Upper Lake. Temple-na-Skellig and St. Kevin’s Bed, a cave, are only accessible via boat.

Crosses of Glendalough
There are nine marked walkingtrails in Wicklow Mountains National Park ranging from a short half hour walk to a four-hour hillwalk.  The park is host to a wide diversity of wildlife including red deer, sika deer, fallow deer, feral goat, red fox, mink, and over 100 species of birds.  The common lizard is the only reptile in the park, as there are no snakes in Ireland.

The visitor center located nearby hosts an interesting exhibit and a 17-minute film entitled “Ireland of the Monasteries.”


Join Rick Steves in this video: “Glendalough, Ireland: Exploring the Wicklow Mountains.”  (Watch only the first 1:55 minutes.)
For a unique birds eye view, enjoy this video: “Glendalough.” (3:40)


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