Dunluce Castle, Northern Ireland

Aerial view of Dunluce Castle

Thought by many to be the most romantic and picturesque of Irish castles, the ruins of medieval Dunluce Castle sit atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the Irish Sea on the Antrim coast of Northern Ireland.  It is joined to the mainland by an arched walkway, or bridge, over a 20-foot chasm.

The 17th century mainland courtyard, containing domestic buildings, leads downhill to a narrow crossing to the rock, formerly protected by a drawbridge to the gatehouse. The buildings on the rock are from the16th and 17th century.

The earliest mention of Dunluce Castle is in the fourteenth century, and it is believed to have been built by Richard de Burgh on the site of an old fortress.  It was later occupied by the McQuillans around 1513.

Dunluce Castle

Forty years later, Sorley Boy McDonnell, a Scottish chieftain who controlled the northeastern coast of Ireland, claimed the castle for the McDonnell clan.  But in 1584 Queen Elizabeth I ordered Sir John Perrott to take the castle for England.  Sorley Boy fled but was able to retake the castle with help from inside. 

It is he who mounted the four cannons on the gatehouses obtained from the Spanish galleass Girona which foundered on Lacada Point near the Giant’s Causeway in 1588.  Funds obtained from selling the recovered cargo from the ship was used by Sorley Boy’s son to modernize the castle.

McDonnell’s son, Randal, is credited with restoring the castle and building a lavish manor inside the castle walls.  Randal married the widow Lady Katherine Manners and the Earl and Countess of Antrim set about appointing the castle with the finest of decorations.  An inventory of the period shows fine tapestries and curtains, including one set that had belonged to Cardinal Wolsey of Hampton Court.

The inventory lists over sixty elaborately upholstered chairs, a library of books, saddles worked with gold and silver, fine cabinets, and priests’ vestments.  The Countess is also credited with establishing St. Cuthbert’s Church near the castle.

Dunluce Castle 

The village which grew up around the castle around 1608 was a thriving merchant town as evidenced by the headstones in St. Cuthbert’s graveyard.  Currently there is an archaeological project being conducted to unearth the village ruins destroyed in the 1641 rebellion when it was besieged by the Irish army. 

Most of the Scottish residents escaped to Scotland before the village was burned to the ground.  The village was revolutionary for its age as it boasted indoor toilets and cobblestone streets laid out in a grid. These 21 videos, Discovery of a Lost Town: Dunluce, (1 hour, 8 minutes total) chronicle that dig.

During the 1641 rebellion, the Earl was captured by Scottish General Robert Monro. After his release he lived in Dunluce Castle until his death in 1683.  After the Battle of the Boyne in 1690, Dunluce was abandoned and Ballymagarry became the principal residence of the McDonnell clan until 1745.

Diagram of Dunluce at its peak

The castle was given to the Northern Ireland government in 1928 to be preserved as a National Monument.

Many legends surround Dunluce Castle…some true, some just myth.  Below the castle is Mermaid’s Cave where legend says a lost soldier was dragged to the depths by a beautiful mermaid.  Other stories tell of smugglers and Spanish treasure hidden in the depths of the cave.

One of the most famous stories is purported to have occurred during a storm in 1639 when the kitchen, along with seven servants, fell into the sea. 

And just for fun…here are 50 things you probably never knew about Dunluce Castle. (Note: I guess #1 is still up for debate!)

The Castle in Popular Culture

The castle is thought to be the inspiration for Cair Paravel in C.S. Lewis’ Chronicles of Narnia.  In 1973 the castle appeared on the inner gatefold of the multi-million selling Led Zeppelin album Houses of the Holy.  The castle appeared as Snakehead’s hideout, called Ravens Keep, in the 2003 Jackie Chan movie The Medallion.  Dunluce Castle also represents the House of Greyjoy, ruler of the Iron Islands, in the TV series Game of Thrones.

Visiting Dunluce Castle

Audio/visual guides are available on site that allow visitors to view animations of the castle’s structures rebuilt before their eyes to create an engaging and immersive visitor experience.   However there are lots of information boards throughout the ruins to keep visitors informed. A video is also available in the discovery room. 

An app for iphone and android devices has been developed for Dunluce Castle. This is now available, free of charge, from the App Store and Google Play.

To reach the castle, there is a short, casual walk from the carpark across a wooden bridge to the castle.  The bridge spans the chasm which separates the castle from the mainland.  There is also a walk down steps to the cave underneath the castle.

For some beautiful scenery, try this 360 tour from the bridge to the castle.

These videos provide a good background for visiting Dunluce Castle:

Rick Steves’ Dunluce Castle, Northern Ireland: Romantic Ruins (1:54)

Dunluce Castle, County Antrim, Northern Ireland (1:05) shows the stairs to the cave.

Here you can print off your own Guide Card to Dunluce Castle for the most complete information on the ruins.

Giant's Causeway, Northern Ireland

Anything with a name like the Giant’s Causeway is bound to have a legend attached that explains the origins of this unique geological formation found on the northern Antrim Coast of Northern Ireland where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Irish Sea.  And it goes something like this…

The Legend of Finn McCool

The Irish giant Finn McCool builds a giant raised road, or causeway, across the sea to the coast of Scotland to meet the Scottish giant Benandonner in battle.  Once he arrives in Scotland, he quickly discovers that Benandonner is a much bigger giant than himself, and Finn runs back across the causeway to home.

Finn’s wife disguises him as a “baby” by putting him in a bathtub-turned-cradle, and when Benandonner sees Finn as a giant “baby,” he quickly decides that if the “baby” is this big, then his father must really be huge.  In fear, Benandonner runs back to Scotland, tearing up the causeway along the way…hence it is called – the Giant’s Causeway.

Listen to the story (read with an Irish accent!) with illustrations here to get a more complete and entertaining telling of the legend. Make sure the sound and auto are turned on (and it worked better in Google Chrome, than Internet Explorer).

Now watch the short 2.5-minute animated version The Myth of Finn McCool that plays in the Giant’s Causeway Visitor Center.

But was it really giants that created this geometric wonder that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site?  Even though there is more to the Finn McCool story, scientists say that the mostly hexagonal shaped columns are the result of volcanic activity over 60 million years ago.

Giant's Causeway basalt columns 

Basically, fluid basalt flowed up through chalk beds to form a lava plateau.  And much the same way as mud dries leaving cracks, so did the basalt creating nearly 40,000 columns.  Years of weathering created many of the mythical sites along the coast.

Some of these must see sites include: the Grand Causeway, the largest of three rock outcrops; the Giant’s Boot, a large formation resembling Finn’s boot lost in his flight…a size 93.5 by scale; the Camel’s Hump, known as Finn’s camel turned to stone it is a basaltic dyke of cooled lava; the Wishing Chair, a natural formation worn smooth over time and once reserved only for ladies; and the Shepherd’s Steps on the far end of the coastline walk, 167 very steep steps connecting the coast trail and the cliff trail and best experienced going down!

Other notable sites along the coastline trail include the Organ, the Chimney Stacks, Giant’s Eyes, the Honeycomb, the Giant’s Harp, and the Giant’s Gate.  The modern visitor center opened in 2012 and operated by the National Trust offers interactive exhibits, a restaurant, and a gift shop. Audio guides are also available through the center.

For a complete map of all paths and sites to see, go here.  For individual trail maps for coastline and cliff top walks to download, go here.  And to enjoy 360-degree virtual online tours, go here.

Giant's Causeway hexagonal columns

From the parking lot and visitor center, there is a half-mile downhill walk to the coastline trail along the causeway columns.  Fortunately, there is also a shuttle bus that runs to and from the coastline trail and it shares the same route as the walking path. Walking down would be fine for most but walking back to the main building could be tough.

Appropriate dress also enhances a visit to the Giant’s Causeway.  It can windy and cool and/or rainy, so dress appropriately for coastal winds which make the area cool regardless of the season.  Good walking shoes are necessary as the basalt columns can be wet either from rain or splashing waves. 

Giant’s Causeway, N. Ireland (5:36) is a good narrated video to see the site and understand the basis of the legend of Finn McCool.

Although this video Giant’s Causeway (11:25) is a bit long, it gives you a complete picture of visiting the site as a tourist.  At the beginning notice the shuttle bus on the road down to the coast and the tourists walking down.  At the end, this tourist walks up the Shepherd’s Steps and you can hear him huffing and puffing in the background!  (Just a little video to see the importance of the shuttle bus at the Giant’s Causeway!)

From an historical perspective, the Spanish Armada’s flagship Girona sank near the Giant’s Causeway in 1588…a secret that only locals knew about for over 400 years.  It was 1967 before the wreck and its many treasures were discovered off the Antrim Coast.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Northern Ireland

Located in the northernmost corner of Northern Ireland near Ballintoy in County Antrim is the unique Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge that spans a narrow 98-foot deep chasm allowing access to a beautiful island. The 65-foot long bridge connects the mainland to tiny Carrick-a-Rede Island and, although it has been rebuilt several times over the years, a bridge has spanned this rocky area for almost four centuries.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

From here you can actually see Rathlin Island and the Scottish isles!  The Mull of Kintyre is the most visible part of Scotland just beyond Rathlin.

An earlier bridge was just a single rope handrail and widely spaced slats used by fishermen to check their nets on the island, which provided great salmon fishing grounds until 2002.  In fact, the name is Irish for “rock of the casting.” The current two-handrailed bridge was erected in 2008 by the National Trust for an easier and safer crossing.

The views from the bridge and the island are spectacular, but warning signs also urge visitors to be careful.  There are few guards and railings on the island cliffs, so be sure to watch your step while exploring on marked paths.  Click here for a 360-degree view of the area.

There’s a 30- to 45-minute coastal walk up to Carrick-a-Rede, and there are some steep steps and stairs.  No one has been injured falling from the bridge, but some have feared the crossing back to the mainland.  What happens to them?  Click here to find out.

Afraid of heights? Not to worry.  The views from the mainland are just as beautiful as from the island.  Taking the rope bridge challenge just provides an adrenaline rush and another notch on your “I did it” belt!

As a reward for crossing the bridge, enjoy tea and cake and the lovely view at the WeighbridgeTearoom located on Carrick-a-Rede Island.

Rope Bridge to Carrick-a-Rede Island

The area around the bridge is also rich in geology, flora, and fauna diversity and is designated an Area of Specific Scientific Interest.  The island is one of the best examples of a volcanic plug in Northern Ireland.  Marine erosion has exposed an area of this geological wonder.

Noisy seabird colonies of fulmars, kittywakes, guillemots, and razorbills breed on the islands close to the rope bridge.  Sheep and cattle also graze in nearby meadows. Porpoises, dolphins, and sea lions have been spotted in the waters below, as well as a basking shark! 

Wild thyme can carpet the area in pink and at least three different types of orchids can be found around the sites as well as other wildflowers.  Even the Facebook page of the National Trust shows that the Northern Lights were visible from the nearby town of Ballintoy!

Other sites in the area include Larry Bane,once a chalk quarry in the mid-1970’s, but now an access point for a walk to the rope bridge and a 400-year-old restored fisherman’s cottage to show the connection between the bridge and a once thriving industry.

Locations around Larry Bane and Ballintoy have been used as sets for episodes of the highly popular HBO series Game ofThrones, such as Renly’s Warcamp.

Click here for a handy pdf map of the Carrick-a-Rede walking trail and bridge.  You’ll see that the walking path to the bridge is much longer than the walk over the bridge.

Join this visitor in his walk across Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge video to get a feel for life on the edge!

Ireland vs. Northern Ireland...What's the Difference?

Technically speaking, Ireland is the island.  But on this island are two separate political countries…the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.  The Republic of Ireland is an independent sovereign nation.  Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain, which also includes Scotland, Wales, and England.

Until 1921, Ireland was one undivided country under British rule.  So why are they split? What started as a religious issue between the Protestants and the Catholics, has now become a social and cultural conflict.

Traditionally, Ireland is a Catholic country.  There are still Catholics in Northern Ireland, but when citizens of England and Scotland started emigrating to the northern part of Ireland 500 years ago, they brought their Protestant religion with them, so they feel more culturally linked to Great Britain through their Protestant ancestors.

(Remember England was also Catholic until King Henry VIII got mad at the pope in the 16^th century for not recognizing his marriage annulment from Queen Catherine so he could marry Anne Boleyn.  In defiance he “protested” and started the Church of England.)

Under pressure from the mostly Protestant population in the North to remain with the Protestant United Kingdom, the British and Irish governments forced the division of the island into the north and the south.

The IRA (Irish Republican Army) is a Catholic paramilitary organization whose goal is to force the British out of Northern Ireland.  This terrorist group organized in 1919 and is believed responsible for hundreds of deaths in the late 20^th century.

The period after 1968 is referred to as “The Troubles.”  British soldiers came in 1969 to restore order but unfortunately took sides and discrimination of Catholics continued.  Extremists from both sides took the law into their own hands resulting in thousands either killed or imprisoned.

Ireland governs itself, and so did Northern Ireland until the 1960s when the civil unrest forced Great Britain to impose Home Rule.  In the early 21^st century, Northern Ireland regained some of its independent government, but it continues to remain under British Sovereign law. 

There are also a few other differences.  For example, the Republic of Ireland uses the euro for its currency, while Northern Ireland uses the pound sterling as part of the United Kingdom.  In addition, speed limits in Northern Ireland are shown on signs as miles per hour, while Ireland uses kilometers.  And look at the mailboxes: Northern Ireland mailboxes are red, while those in the Republic of Ireland are green.  That helps you tell when you’ve crossed the border.

Regardless of their differences, the two countries both approved the Belfast Agreement, also known as the Good Friday Agreement, in 1998 which stated that the majority of the people of Northern Ireland want to remain a part of the United Kingdom and that a substantial number of people in Northern Ireland and most of the people of the island of Ireland want a united Ireland.

The agreement basically says that both viewpoints are equally legitimate and that the two countries will remain as they are until the majority of both Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland want the two united.  The political leaders Catholic John Hume and Protestant David Trimble later received the Nobel Peace Prize for their contributions.

However, in many places in Belfast, the lines are still drawn.  “Peace Lines” (walls topped by barbed wire) can still be seen segregating factions of Catholic supporters and Protestant supporters. 

Northern Ireland mural 

Although Northern Ireland is a more peaceful place, one can still see, especially in Belfast, territorial flags, murals, or curbstones painted red, white, and blue for Protestant Loyalists or orange, green, and white for Catholic Republicans.

Tourists are encouraged not to show any support to either faction while traveling through these areas by wearing group colors or waving union flags.  Just to be safe, avoid initiating conversation with locals on politics or religion, and shy away from political demonstrations or controversial parades.  It is best to err on the side of caution.

Today Northern Ireland is composed of six counties, while Ireland has 26 counties.  Confusingly, Northern Ireland is also a part of the province of Ulster (one of four ancient Irish provinces), which also includes three counties from the Republic of Ireland.

Still confused?  Watch this video “Get It Right” (1:16) and see just how “simple” it is!

The first half of this video from Rick Steves “Belfast and the Best of Northern Ireland” (26:08) explains a little more about Belfast and the Troubles. 

And if you are a history buff, you might like this entertaining video “A Brief History of the Conflicts in the North (of Ireland) (10:24).” It begins at THE beginning and carries you through to current times.  (Note: Remember to breathe somewhere in the middle of it.  It carries you pretty fast!)

Experience the Titanic’s Journey through Primary Resources

Worldwide newspaper coverage of the tragic event

Titanic Launch Ticket

Original ticket issued to Mr. David Moneypenny, a Harland & Wolff painter who worked on Titanic’s first-class accommodations.

Life Aboard the Titanic

Even though this is designed as a classroom resource, the original documents (enlarge to view) and the accompanying questions verify the various types of passengers who sailed on the Titanic. 

Eva Hart speaks about her memories of the Titanic . . survivor interview – video (13:06)

Eva Hart was 7 years old when she boarded the Titanic.  She survived with her mother, but her father was lost.  In this interview, Eva shares some of her memories.  She died at age 91 in 1996.

Shadow of the Titanic by Eva Hart

Her published written account.  Check your library.

A Titanic Survivor – video (4:00)

Millvena Dean was only 9 weeks old when she boarded the fateful ship; she was the youngest survivor…and the last survivor to die.  She died at age 97 in 2009.

Titanic survivors aboard the Carpathia

Titanic Survivors: What They Saw – video (4:14)

Interviews recorded in the 1970's and 1980's with survivors Frank Prentice (a crew member who jumped into the icy waters), Eva Hart, Edith Brown, Ruth Becker, and Edith Rosenbaum (an American returning home).

Eyewitness Account of the sinking of the Titanic, 1912

Titanic survivor and first-class passenger Dr. Washington Dodge provided a written statement about the Titanic tragedy aboard the Carpathia, the ship that rescued him and his family.  It was written shortly after his rescue on Carpathia stationery.  (Scroll down a bit and click on full transcript just above ‘Excerpt’ to read his entire account.)

First-Hand Accounts gathered by Southhampton City Council

Listen to recordings and read written accounts from passengers and stewards who survived the tragic sinking.

Titanic Primary Sources – pdf

A list of links to photographs, newspaper clippings, and handwritten accounts.  Scroll below the complete list for enlargements of each or click on the links to go to the original web sites.  Pop Quiz:  Can anyone identify the photo of the first lady on the list—Mrs. J.J. Brown?  What became her nickname after the sinking of the Titanic? Here is a transcript of her obituary from the New York Times in 1932.

New York Tribune, April 16, 1912

Front page coverage of the historic tragedy.  You can click above the page to convert to text or pdf for easier reading.  This is only one newspaper’s account.  The event received worldwide coverage.  Search for other newspaper’s accounts and see how they compare.

The Crash Scene

See the underwater remains of the ship sprawled across a thousand acres of the ocean floor through sonar imaging.  It shows that the ship broke in half before resting on the bottom of the Atlantic.  Click on the numbers to explore the debris field.

Unseen Titanic

National Geographic photos show the remains of the historic ship as it rests at the bottom of the sea as well as some of the recovered artifacts.

First-class passenger ticket on the Titanic

They Said It Couldn’t Sink

Within this article are several primary source documents to enlarge and read.

National Archives

Read some of the claims filed against the owners of the Titanic. 

List or Manifest of Alien Passengers for the Carpathia, June 18, 1912

Search the actual document listing passengers rescued by the Carpathia from the Titanic. 

Titanic Artifacts in the Museum’s Collection

The Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History has several artifacts related to the sinking of the Titanic.  This article only provides a list of items and information about them.  However, if you conduct an image search for an article by name, you might just see what it looks like.  One of the fascinating items and its story is the Bernice Palmer Ellis’ Kodak Brownie camera.

Titanic Belfast - Northern Ireland

Titanic Belfast

It’s not an accident that Titanic Belfast looks like passing ships or that from above it resembles a star or that it opened in 2012… one hundred years after the ship’s tragic maiden voyage. 

The iconic six-floor building located on the site of the former Harland & Wolff shipyard in the city’s Titanic Quarter in the heart of Belfast sits just 100 yards from slipway number 2 where the historic ship was constructed.  To the right is the drawing office where she was designed and to the left is the River Lagan where she first set sail.

Actually the outside resembles the hulls of four ships covered with bright metal shards that resemble ocean waves from reflected light.  Some even say it resembles an iceberg.  The aerial star shape of the building is symbolic of the ship’s owner, the White Star Line.

Once inside, the giant atrium greets visitors as they embark on a self-guided tour through nine galleries that tell the story of the Titanic from its construction on Queen’s Island through its tragic sinking to its underwater discovery and her place in modern culture today.

The Titanic experience is told through state-of-the-art exhibits, interactive displays, audio, film, CGI, full-size replicas, and artifacts.  The highlight of the tour will be a dark ride through the Titanic under construction.

The Galleries

Gallery 1: Boomtown Belfast—Learn about booming Belfast in the early 1900s and walk through the Harland and Wolff shipyards where the Titanic was built.

Gallery 2: The Shipyard Ride—Experience the thrilling dark ride through the shipyard and encounter the sights, sounds, and smells of the Titanic’s construction.

Gallery 3: The Launch of Titanic—Experience the excitement of the ship’s launching as you look out to Titanic sitting on her slipway, made possible by innovative glazing that incorporates original imagery from the time.

Interior of Titanic exhibit

Gallery 4: Fitting-Out—Watch as the Titanic’s interior craftsmanship comes to life and view the luxury built into the epic ship.

Gallery 5: Maiden Voyage—Learn the stories of the passengers, crew, and heroes who embarked on the Titanic’s maiden voyage.

Gallery 6: The Sinking—Relive the drama as the Titanic sinks after hitting an iceberg.

Gallery 7: The Aftermath—Learn of the world’s reaction to the tragedy through news reports and recordings enhanced by live performances and exhibits.  Visitors can use interactive screens to search the passenger and crew lists to find out if one of their relatives was aboard the ship. 

Gallery 8: Myths and Reality—Separate fact from fiction through the many films, stories, and fantasies that have been inspired by the Titanic legend through interactive touch screens.  Celine Dion’s song My Heart Will Go On plays in the background.

Gallery 9: Visit and Explore the Wreck—Follow Dr. Robert Ballard, the discoverer of the Titanic’s resting place on the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean in 1985, as he works with Titanic Belfast.  Visitors will be able to visit the wreck with live links to the contemporary undersea exploration, however actual artifacts retrieved from the Titanic Wreck Site and Debris Field will not be on display for ethical reasons.

This video, National Geographic Live! – Robert Ballard: Restore the Titanic (20:29), tells the background leading up to Dr. Ballard's Titanic discovery in his own words just before the Titanic Belfast opened in 2012.  

The Ocean Exploration Centre is located just beneath Gallery 9 and promotes the exploration of the Titanic site as well as other areas of the ocean surrounding Northern Ireland.  Discover ocean secrets in real time with live video feeds.

A replica of the Grand Staircase is located on the fifth and sixth floors in the Titanic Suite.  Unfortunately, this suite is reserved exclusively for banquets and conferences.  The only way visitors may view the staircase is to have afternoon tea on Sunday afternoons!

In front of the building stands, Titanica, a bronze female figure sculpture by Rowan Gillespie, which resembles a figurehead on a ship's prow.  Representing hope and positivity, it was dedicated by representatives of the Anglican, Catholic, Methodist, and Presbyterian churches.

It takes about 2-3 hours to tour the entire exhibit.  Take time also to visit each section of the Titanic Belfast official web site and learn many Titanic stories and ship facts.  Make your time at the world’s largest Titanic exhibition count.

RMS Titanic on maiden voyage, 1912

Ferry from Cairnryan, Scotland, to Belfast, Northern Ireland

Cairnryan on Loch Ryan

Cairnryan, Scotland, is a tiny little port town in Dumphries & Galloway on the eastern shore of Loch Ryan, an important sea loch that acts as a natural harbor for shipping.  Its calm waters also make it a natural choice for ferry service between Scotland and Northern Ireland.

During World War II, Loch Ryan was a busy place for war activity, and Cairnryan was named No. 2 Military Port. One of 3 military built piers can still be seen here although it is in disrepair and fishermen are its only visitors.

Thousands of troops were based in military camps in Cairnryan, and it was here the Atlantic U-boat fleet surrendered and was later hauled out to the North Channel and scuttled.  This activity was codenamed “Operation Deadlight.”

Concrete pontoon “boats” can still be seen off the shore north of Cairnryan, yet another remnant of WWII.  They are “beetles” from the Mulberry Harbour Project.  The beetle pontoons were used to hold up the “Whale” roadway sections, with four of the whales built at Cairnryan.

In the late 1960s, Cairnryan was used as a dismantling site for British air craft carriers and other sizable vessels.

Little is left of the village except for Lochryan Hotel, a few bed and breakfasts, a few shops, and the Merchant’s House Restaurant.  Even the church and the post office are gone.

Stena Line ferry

Today, Cairnryan serves as a port for 2 ferry lines, Stena Line and P&O Ferries.  In 2011, Stena Line began running its ferry service to the Port of Belfast in Northern Island from a new terminal at Old House Point in Cairnryan, rather than from Stranraer .

Stena line is the world’s largest ferry operator and the largest privately owned shipping company in the world.  They have 2 ferries that make 6 daily crossings.  The trip takes 2 hours and 15 minutes.

All Things Scotland...(or a bunch anyway!)

“Of all the small nations of this earth, perhaps only the ancient Greeks surpass the Scots in their contribution to mankind.” 
― Winston Churchill

Before visiting Scotland, learning a little about her legends, traditions, culture, and symbols may help explain much of what you see and hear while on tour.  Here’s a brief explanation of a few…all things Scotland.

First of all, Scotch is a type of whisky.  Her people are called Scots, or described as Scottish.

Kilt and sporran

A kilt is a short, pleated skirt made of tartan originally designed for climbing throughout the rough hills of the Highlands, but has now become the national dress of Scotland.  A sporran is the leather or fur bag carried around the waist as the kilt has no pockets.  You might want to watch this video “How to Wear a Full Formal Kilt Outfit.”  And to answer the most asked question…what’s UNDER the kilt?  Check out a True Scotsman.

The thistle is the national flower of Scotland. Legend says that a sleeping party of Scottish warriors was saved from invading Norsemen when one of the enemy stepped on the prickly pink blossom and yelled out in pain. Knowing the thistle is the national flower now makes “A Gift of a Thistle” scene in the movie Braveheart even more touching.

Bagpipes

No one needs three guesses to name the national instrument of Scotland.  Although bagpipes are primarily associated with Scotland, they are not exclusive to her.  Countries all over the world have used them for entertainment, in the military, and for memorials.   Some ancient carvings date the bagpipe back to 1,000 b.c. One of the most unusual Scottish carvings is a gargoyle pig playing the bagpipes on the ruins of Melrose Abbey in the Scottish Borders!

Although the majority of the world’s redheads can be found in Ireland, Great Britain, and Western Europe, the highest percentage can be found in Scotland.  In fact, 13 per cent of all redheads live in Scotland, and even more carry the recessive ‘red hair’ gene.  Why?  Scientists believe that it is the gloomy weather!  Redheads typically have pale skin, freckles, and sensitivity to sunlight.  And what do scientist believe could possibly reduce the number of redheads…global warming!  Warmer days would bring more sunny weather.  That darn global warming wrecks everything!

Luckenbooth brooch

When you go souvenir shopping, consider the Luckenbooth brooch.  Folklore says it provides protection for babies from the ‘evil-eye,’ and legend associates it with Mary, Queen of Scots, as it is designed with two intertwined hearts topped by a crown making it look like a romanticized M in a royal monogram.  The name comes from the luckenbooths, or locked booths, on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh that sold trinkets and jewelry.  Traditionally, a young man gives his bride a Luckenbooth brooch on their wedding day.

Ever wondered about the difference between the Picts and the Celts?  Well, that’s a hard one as there are many theories.  Basically Picts were the earliest known inhabitants of northern Scotland…but that’s according to a Roman author who first called them Picts (picti), Latin for “to paint,” hence the idea that they painted their bodies. The Romans, in general, called them Caledonians.  We don’t know what they called themselves, as they left no written record except for stone art carvings.  Celts, on the other hand, are believed to be a much older race which originated on the mainland of Europe.  They eventually migrated to Scotland, Ireland and England and intermingled with the native people.

Celtic Cross

The Celtic cross is a symbol that combines a cross with a ring surrounding the intersection.  It is primarily associated with Ireland because of the legend that Saint Patrick introduced the Celtic cross, but they can also be found in Scotland.  No one is really sure about its origin or meaning.

For a tiny country, Scotland has made a big impact in the arena of sports.  Most people are aware that Scotland is known as the “Home of Golf,” with St. Andrews as the most well-known golf course since 1552.  Scotland has over 550 courses, with 94 in Glasgow alone.  Comedian Robin Williams explains it all in this video!

Curling

Also introduced in Scotland was curling, a team sport where a curler hurls a granite stone down an ice path with two other players using “brooms” to alter the state of the ice for a score.  It was first recorded in public record by a notary in 1540.  Two time world champion David Murdoch introduces you to the world of curling in this video.

And then…there’s shinty.  Played primarily in the Scottish Highlands or by Highland immigrants, it is sort of like field hockey.  Watching this video on shinty makes me want to be a mile away…it looks really dangerous!

Shortbread

At mealtime, you might want to familiarize yourself with a few Scottish dishes.  Some you’ll probably want to try and others…well, you decide.  Shortbread is a classic Scottish dessert made of sugar, butter, and flour. Walker’s Shortbread Ltd. is Scotland’s largest food exporter and it can be bought in many US markets, but if you’d like to make your own, here’s a traditional recipe.

In addition to traditional bacon and eggs, a full Scottish breakfast could include tattie scones (potato scones), grilled tomatoes, baked beans, porridge (oatmeal), black pudding (pork blood sausage), and kippers (cold smoked herring).

Scotland’s national dish is haggis, a sausage pudding made from sheep’s pluck (heart, liver, lungs) combined with oatmeal and spices traditionally stuffed in the animal’s stomach, served with neeps (turnips), tatties (potatoes), and whisky.  Yum!

And in Scotland…a kirk is a church.  The national Church of Scotland is Presbyterian.  A crofter is a farmer.  A ceilidh is a party with music and dancing (try guessing that pronunciation).  And if you really want to learn some totally Scottish words, then watch this slide show, 50 Weird Scottish Words.

Now try your hand with this short quiz on “All Things Scotland.” (Answers below, but don’t peek!)

1.      Are Shetland ponies native to the Shetland Islands in Scotland?

2.      Are Highland cattle native to the Scottish Highlands?

3.      Do the Scots really dance the Highland Fling?

4.      Does the Scottish terrier really originate in Scotland?

5.      Were the Highland Games invented by the Scottish Highlanders?

6.      Were Scotch eggs first made in Scotland?

Answers:

1.    Yep…the hardy little ponies have been roaming the Shetland Isles for over 2,000 years, possibly since the Bronze Age.

2.    Yep…this rugged breed of cattle was first developed in the Highlands of western Scotland.  Characterized by their long horns and shaggy coats, they are now raised by breeders all over the world.

3.    Yep…and it is considered the traditional solo dance of Scotland.  This style of dancing is always performed in a kilt and has spread around the world in competitions.

4.    Yep…also known as the Scottie, it is one of 5 breeds to originate in Scotland.  It is the only breed of dog to live in the White House three times, with Presidents Roosevelt, Eisenhower, and George W. Bush.   

5.    Yep…or most likely anyway.  The games have a long history, but most agree they began in Scotland at clan gatherings either to test athletic prowess or to choose the mightiest warriors for battle.  Today, competitions are held around the world testing such skills as the hammer throw or caber toss. (But sorry, the game of twisting the four legs off a cow for a fat sheep prize is no longer held in civilized games…imagine that!)  And did I mention that they wear kilts for this event too?

6.    Nope…a London department store claims to have made them first in the 1730’s.  It is a shelled hard-boiled egg, wrapped in sausage, coated with bread crumbs and deep fried.  Known as a picnic food, Scotch eggs are found in most pubs and grocery stores.  Want to try your hand at them?  Here’s the recipe.

And in case something has been omitted, check out this list of 10 Things You Should Know About Scotland—it seems I missed a few.  You’ll be surprised to learn the official animal of Scotland.

On a final note…Scotland is one of four states within the United Kingdom of Great Britain, which also includes England, Wales, and Northern Ireland.  On Sept. 18, 2014, those 16 years of age and older will vote on Scotland’s independence from Great Britain.  In a bit of sarcastic prose, The Guardian addresses Scottish independence in an article entitled “DearScotland: here are 76 things we'd like to apologise for, love England.”  (Note added after Sept. 18: Scotland voted to stay with Great Britain.)

In the words of Scotland’s famous freedom fighter: “I hae brocht ye to the ring, now see if ye can dance.” —William Wallace

~~~~~~~~Guid cheerio the now and see ye efter!~~~~~~~~~

Fort William, Scotland

Known as the “Outdoor Capital of the UK,” Fort William is the second largest city in the Highlands after Inverness.  Surrounded by idyllic Glen Nevis and Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Britain, the area is a magnet for hikers, bikers, and climbers.

Fort William on the shores of Loch Linnhe

Winter skiing is a major draw for tourists to the Fort William area with a gondola that takes visitors up 2,000 feet for amazing views and access to ski slopes.  The area also hosts the UCI Mountain Bike World Cup in June each year.

Fort William marks the end of the 96-mile West Highland Way, where hikers are greeted by a seated statue of a hiker looking out toward Loch Linnhe.  It is also the beginning of the 73-mile Great Glen Way hike to Inverness, where the starting point can be found in the old Fort.

The original fort on the shore of Loch Linnhe was built in 1654, but saw little action until the Jacobite Uprising in 1745 when the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charles left the Highlands changed forever.

Other unique sites in Fort William are St. Andrews Church on the north end of Main Street, St. Mary’s Catholic Church on Belford Road, and Ben Nevis Distillery.

Fort William and surrounding area

The town of about 10,000 residents sits at the head of Loch Linnhe, one of Scotland’s longest sea lochs.  Several small villages and hamlets make up Fort William including Banavie, Caol, Corpach, Inverlochy, Torlundy, and Tomacharich.

In 1822, the Caledonian Canal was opened for merchant shipping and it also brought Victorian tourism to the area.  The canal passes by the little village of Banavie near Neptune’s Staircase, a set of lock gates that raises vessels into upper Banavie canal area.

High Street in Fort William

Pedestrian only High Street is the heart of Fort William.  Here is where you’ll find shops, restaurants, pubs and the West Highland Museum.  The traditional Scottish dish is haggis, while the preferred drink is single malt whisky.

In addition, parts of several movies, including Braveheart, Rob Roy, and the Harry Potter movies, were filmed there.