Sister Trips in Quirky Quarters--Flophouze Hotel, Round Top, Tx--Overnight in a Shipping Container!

STAY THE NIGHT…

Entrance to Flophouze Hotel

As we entered the gates of the salvage yard, we began to wonder just what we had gotten ourselves into this time.  Another “sister trip in quirky quarters” had led us to Recycle the Past, an architectural salvage outside of Round Top, Texas, to spend the weekend in a shipping container.  You read that correctly…a shipping container in a salvage yard.

Warm interior of shipping container

Who knew a shipping container could be so…well, glamorous and cozy!  In the back of the yard were six shipping containers lined up, and ours were the two on the end where the back doors (now turned sliding glass doors) served as the entrance to an overnight wonder featuring a seating area, a small kitchen, a full bath, and separate bedroom.

Functional kitchen

Flophouze Hotel has turned these beasts of the highways into the perfect weekend getaway for the road weary.  The kitchen contained a mini frig, a microwave, a sink, and fully stocked cabinets with a coffeemaker.  (Bring your own food!)

Vintage pocket doors separate bath from kitchen and bedroom

The full bath features a walk in shower and plenty of room for dressing.  The bedrooms came with either a queen bed, two twin beds, or a queen and bunk beds to sleep more.  And yes…they have all the modern conveniences including heating and air conditioning.

Reclaimed wood adds a rustic charm

The recycled containers live up to the sign at the gate…Recycle the Past.  True to form the interiors are outfitted in reclaimed wood, installed windows from a salvaged school, and the counter tops are old bowling alley floors!

Enjoying the outdoors

But the view, you say?  The shipping containers were backed up to a verdant green pasture with meandering cows peacefully grazing as the sun set.  The deck outside the sliding glass doors and the firepit and Adirondack chairs made for some pleasant evening chats and early morning sunrise breakfasts.  Oh, and did I mention the swinging hammock?

Pastoral view from the deck

You’ll find no TV here, but put an LP on the vintage record player, slide open the back door, and sit back and get in touch with nature, the quiet, and each other.

SEE THE SITES…

On Henkel Market Square in Round Top

Flophouze Hotel is located just down the road from Round Top in Central Texas (pop. 90).  For most of the year, it is a sleepy little village with a few quaint stores hovered around the very well kept Henkel Square Market, as when we visited.  But in the spring and the fall, the entire area is transformed into an enormous shopping mall.  Round Top Antiques Fair is an outdoor gathering that draws antique dealers and shoppers from all over the country. 

A slice of pie heaven!

A stop for a bite of dessert heaven is a must at Royers Pie Haven where homemade goodness and a few unique combinations and some old-time favorites make for some good eating!

Our focus for sightseeing, however, was Adventure 290, a “hunt for history” drive along a portion of Highway 290 between Chappell Hill and Elgin.  Each of the participating eight towns along the route provided a scavenger hunt to encourage travelers to stop in the little communities that might otherwise be bypassed by speedy travelers between Houston and Austin.   Download your Adventure 290 Passport here.

Chappell Hill Museum

First stop, Chappell Hill.  Although the little village is full of historic sites, not to mention a lavender farm, it was the Chappell Hill Historical Society Museum that brought us to town.  Located in a 1927 school building, among its many exhibits it chronicles plantation, Civil War, and Reconstruction history, as well as the story of two previous schools which stood on the same location in the 1850s.

Blue Bell Creameries in Brenham

 Next a visit to Brenham, home of Blue Bell Creameries.  And who doesn’t love ice cream…especially Blue Bell…a true Texas icon, so of course we stopped in for a scoop.  But Adventure 290 took us to historic Toubin Park, a unique pocket park featuring one of the original cisterns built to store rainwater for firefighters and there learn about the burning of Brenham in 1866.

Texas Cotton Gin Museum in Burton

 On to…Burton, home of the Texas Cotton Gin Museum, the official Cotton Gin Museum of Texas.  Step back 100 years when cotton was king and walk through history to view the inner workings of a real cotton gin built in 1914 and operated for over 60 years.  The 1925 mighty Bessemer engine still bales and gins cotton each year during the annual Cotton Gin Festival in April.

Historic Texas pink granite block in Carmine

The next stop found us in tiny Carmine at the Carmine Visitor Center and Museum, which was once the Southern Pacific Railroad depot.  Note the 4’x4’ pink granite rock at the entrance which came from Granite Mountain, the same stone used in the Galveston Seawall and the state’s capitol.

"Cowboys Receiving the Mail" mural in Giddings

 In Giddings, we found a unique piece of Americana inside the post office.  During the Great Depression, the mural “Cowboys Receiving the Mail” was one of 109 works of art commissioned by Franklin D. Roosevelt to adorn the walls of post offices and federal buildings around the country.

Paige Historical Museum

 Next on 290 was Paige, one of the many little towns whose history was determined by the railroad that ran through it.  The small museum housed in the old depot highlights its history.

Medallion marks the spot of Wild West in McDade

 The sleepy little town of McDade was the backdrop for quite a different bit of history.  In the late 1800s, it was the setting for saloons, outlaws, and gunfights that would rival any old Western movie.  Today, all that’s left to remind us of its turbulent past is the state historical medallion on the outside of one of the old downtown buildings now the McDade Historical Museum.

Elgin Depot Museum

Elgin, our last stop on the Adventure 290 scavenger hunt, is known as the Sausage Capital of Texas.  But that is not what brought us here.  Another museum in another depot in another railroad town drew us in, but by the time we finished the trail, the museum was closed.  Oh well, another adventure for another day, and another good reason to head on back to our comfortable upscale shipping container and enjoy a Texas sunset from the deck.

Another Texas sunset...that's life!

Texas Hill Country Scenic Fall Drive – Lost Maples Area

Hiking through Lost Maples State Natural Area in November when the leaves of the Uvalde bigtooth maples turn to yellow and gold is reputedly one of the most scenic in the Texas Hill Country.  But just as impressive is the scenic drive looping around the Lost Maples area.

Just as the season began to dawn, one could see every hue of green from the cedars and evergreen live oaks to the yellow and orange of walnuts, sycamores, and oaks, with a splash of deep gold and red scattered about.  It’s as if God had just sat down for his annual fall painting session, dashing a bit of color here and there.

Fall colors in the Texas Hill Country

And as the sun set, the yellow sparkled to gold and the reds became inflamed.  The most colorful foliage could be seen in low lying areas along creek and river beds where clear skies allowed for mirror reflections in the cool rivers for a double helping of beauty. 

Fall reflections 

Take the time to soak in the colors of fall.  Drive slowly.  Take the back roads.  Enjoy the silence.  Travel during the weekday.  And stop…often…to appreciate the peaceful wonders of the hill country.

FOLLOW THIS PATH…

Drive the loop from Kerrville to Bandera on state highway 16.  The stretch between Kerrville and Medina Children’s Home just north of Medina is serpentine and especially pretty.  From Bandera travel west on FM 470 through Tarpley to Utopia, which is especially scenic between the latter two towns.

The drive out of Utopia on FM 1050 is most dramatic as you drive through hills, valleys, and canyons.  Then take a turn off the beaten path.  Just before you get to US 83, turn north onto FM 2748 toward Rio Frio and continue north on FM 1120 to Leakey.  The views and colors along this stretch of the Frio River are most stunning.  Stop and soak in the colors at river crossings.

Serenity on the Frio River

Head east out of Leakey on FM 337 for the most picturesque drive as you hug the sides of limestone cliffs on a winding hill road toward Vanderpool near Lost Maples State Natural Area.  Take FM 187 north to the junction of state highway 39 where you will criss cross the South Fork of the Guadalupe River for spectacular views just prior to reaching Hunt and on your last stretch between Hunt and Ingram.

Splashes of fall in the Texas Hill Country

ALSO LOOK FOR…

Hill Country white-tailed deer

Pay attention to road signs during any drive through the Texas Hill Country, especially the deer crossing ones…they mean it!  You’ll see plenty of white-tailed deer grazing all over the area in the fall as the first of November is the opening of deer hunting season.  You would be advised not to drive at night, as we saw as many on the road side as a result of accidents in the early morning hours as we saw deer camps along the way.

Although our main focus was viewing the fall foliage, we couldn’t help noticing all the impressive ranch entrances along the way…hundreds of high fence deer and exotic animal ranches whose owners seemed more interested in besting his neighbor with the most elaborate and expansive entrances.

These architectural wonders certainly caught our attention, with names like Bug Scuffle Ranch and Heaven’s Doorstep, and imposing designs to resemble adobe ruins (complete with faux cannon pointing out second story windows) and a massive replica of the famous Texas landmark, the Alamo.

Whether your focus on a fall drive through the Texas Hill Country is the spectacular foliage, white-tailed deer in their natural habitat, or ranch entrances as grandiose as Texas itself, just enjoy the ride.  Sometimes it’s the journey…not the destination.

Enjoy the ride!

Scandinavia in a Nutshell

Here are a variety of web links to sites that provide additional information on Oslo, Norway; Copenhagen, Denmark; and Stockholm, Sweden.  Many sites list the same attraction, but may give additional information or a new perspective.

Oslo, Norway

OSLO, NORWAY

Rick Steves Oslo Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Oslo.

Trip Advisor’s Top Ten Oslo – get lists and reviews of museums, historic sites, parks, and more.  Click on “See All” for more complete listing.

Oslo’s 10 Top Attractions

12 Top-Rated Tourist Attractions and Things to Do in Oslo – Planet Ware.

Copenhagen, Denmark

COPENHAGEN, DENMARK

Rick Steves Copenhagen Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Copenhagen.

Trip Advisor’s Things to Do in Copenhagen

Top 30 Attractions in Copenhagen

Top 10 Free Things to Do in Copenhagen – Lonely Planet

Best Things to Do in Copenhagen – US News and World Report

12 Top-Rated Tourist Attractions and Things to Do in Copenhagen – Planet Ware

Things to Do in Copenhagen – 10 Best Lists from USA Today

Top Ten Free Things to Do in Copenhagen – Conde Nast Traveler

Stockholm, Sweden

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

Rick Steves Stockholm Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Stockholm.

Trip Advisor’s Things to Do in Stockholm

12 Top-Rated Tourist Attractions and Things to Do in Stockholm – Planet Ware

21 Stunning Things to Do in Stockholm

8 Best Things to Do in Stockholm – US News and World Report

Top 15 Attractions and Things to Do in Stockholm

Stockholm’s Must Dos – National Geographic City Guide

Stockholm: 10 Things to Do – Time

Top Things to Do in Stockholm – Lonely Planet

MAPS

Oslo City Map – Click to enlarge an area

Copenhagen City Map – Click to enlarge an area

Stockholm City Map – Click to enlarge an area

Scandinavia…in general

Rick Steves Travel Talk: Scandinavia – video travel class

Elsinore - Kronborg Castle -- near Copenhagen, Denmark

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør is the actual castle that William Shakespeare set Hamlet in.  In his famous play, the castle was called Elsinore, which has become the English name for Helsingør.   Located an hour north of Copenhagen, Denmark, it is still a mystery whether Shakespeare actually ever visited the castle.

Kronborg Castle

 Regardless, he doubtless heard the stories of the beautiful castle and the fabulous banquets held there.  He wrote this world-renowned tragedy around 1600 before the fire devastated the infamous castle.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, Kronborg Castle has existed since 1420.  Although it burned to the ground and has been rebuilt, its strategic position at the head of  Øresund Sound placed Helsingør as one of the most important cities in Europe when passing ships were bound to stop and pay tolls before sailing into the Baltic Sea.   

With these Sound Dues, Frederick II adorned the castle with spires, sandstone and copper roofs making it one of the most beautiful castles of the Renaissance period.  Lavish court life vanished after the fire of 1629 taking all its rich furnishings leaving only its exterior walls.

Interior Kronborg Castle

Frederick II had ordered a series of rich tapestries depicting 1,000 years of Danish history to adorn the Ballroom, or Great Hall, built for his queen Sophie.   Of the 43 historic tapestries all but 15 were destroyed in the fire, and seven are on display at Kronborg.

The palace was rebuilt within ten years but never regained its former glory.  The Swedish king Karl Gustav (husband of Queen Hedvig Leonora of Drottningholm Palace fame) plundered Kronborg in 1658-1660 and for 300 years, the castle served only as a fortress and barracks.

Twisted passageways and secret crypts offer a mystique to the castle. These hidden casemates were built 1574-76 after the fire to provide a hiding place for soldiers, their horses, and provisions…enough to feed 1,000 men for six weeks.

Holger Danske

Deep underground visitors will find the imposing statue of Holger the Dane (Holger Danske), a legendary figure in Danish culture.  As the story goes, if Denmark is ever in trouble, he awakes from his rocky throne to defend her.

While touring the castle, use wifi to listen to stories about the castle’s main rooms.  Look for signs with QR codes on window sills.  Scan the code and get the exciting story of the room, what it was used for, and who lived there.  Be sure to have a QR code reader already loaded on your smart phone.

In the summer of 2017, Hamlet characters will take up residence in the halls and chambers of Kronborg Castle.  Although this Hamlet Live tour costs more than a regular admission ticket, visitors just might run into them while they are roaming around the castle.  Don’t be surprised to see Hamlet or Ophelia wandering the halls.

Drottningholm Palace -- Stockholm, Sweden

Drottningholm Palace is the private resident palace of the royal family of Sweden and a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site since 1991.  Built in the French style in the 1600s and patterned after Versailles, it is located on the island of Lovön in Drottningholm outside of Stockholm.

Drottningholm Palace

The rooms in the southern wing are reserved for Their Majesties the King and Queen, but the rest of the palace and grounds are open to the public year round.

The palace was built by architect Nidocemus Tessin the Elder for Queen Hedvig Eleonora, but succeeding monarchs have changed it to fit their own taste and style.  Notable rooms are the bedchamber of Queen Hedvig and others pictured on this site.

The Royal Chapel was inaugurated in May 1746 where royal events have been held for over 250 years.  The Museum de Vries, housed in the old dragoon stables, features original bronze statues from Dutch sculpture Adriaen de Vries, booty that was captured and brought to Sweden in the 1700s.

Although the palace was mostly abandoned during the 1800s, it received much restoration during the 20^th century.

Drottningholm Park

The Palace Park, which has undergone many changes over the years, was established during the reign of Johan III, and at that time it was primarily a utility park where the parking lot is now.  The oldest, or baroque, garden, the one closest to the palace, dates from the time of Queen Hedvig and designed by architect Tessin and his son after French gardens which were strict and symmetrical.

At the center of the park stands the grand Hercules fountain with bronze sculptures by de Vries.  The seven cascades, a liberal free interpretation of the original Tessin cascades, lie on either side of the center avenue.

In the mid-1700s, the symmetrical design began to be abandoned for a more natural park design.  Large aviaries were built, but only one remains. Gustav III brought in this design patterned after English gardens.

The Chinese Pavilion and the Palace Theatre are separate buildings that may be seen as you stroll on the palace grounds, but require a separate admission fee to enter.

To reach the palace, cross Lake Mälaren on a century-old steamer.  Travel time is 50 minutes.  There is a restaurant on board the steamer, but riders must purchase food, not drinks only, to sit in there.  Sometimes the boat is crowded in peak season and there may not be enough seating for all passengers.  If the weather is pleasant, standing outdoors would make a memorable scenic journey.

Stockholm City Hall – Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm’s City Hall, which stands on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, is one of the most famous buildings in the world, primarily for the event held there…the venue for the Nobel Prize Banquet held December 10 every year, the anniversary of Alfred Nobel’s death.

Stockholm City Hall

After 12 years of construction, the building, built in the national romantic style with eight million red brick, was dedicated on Midsummer’s Eve 1923.  The city hall tower rises 106 meters and is topped by three crowns and the Swedish national coat of arms.  It is a workplace for politicians and civil servants.

But its greatest claim to fame is the yearly Nobel Prize Banquet.  Since 1930, with few exceptions, awards are presented first at the Stockholm Concert Hall, then 1,300 guests dine in the Blue Hall at City Hall in one of the world’s most exclusive banquets.  The Nobel Laureates and their families, the Swedish Royal family, representatives of the Swedish national government, and foreign dignitaries all participate.

Swedish Royal Family 
at Nobel Prize Banquet

In fact, the Blue Hall is not blue at all.  Architect Ragnar Östberg originally designed the room to be decorated with blue glazed tiles.  The idea was abandoned, but the name stuck.  The organ with 10,270 pipes is the largest in Scandinavia.

After the meal, guests then proceed up the stairway to the lavish Golden Hall in Stockholm’s City Hall to dance.  Here the walls are covered in more than 18 million gold and glass mosaic pieces, the work of artist Einar Forseth.  Using a Byzantine style, the mosaics depict historical figures and events from Swedish history.

The Golden Hall is dominated by the “Queen of Lake Malaren” on the northern wall which represents Stockholm being honored by the east and the west.

Other notable rooms in the City Hall include the Council Chamber where Stockholm’s city council convenes every third Monday.  This majestic room was inspired by Sweden’s Viking Age.

The Oval is an antechamber decorated with a series of five 300-year-old tapestries made in Beauvais, France.  Every Saturday, civil weddings and partnership registrations are conducted here.  If you are looking for a “quicky” wedding, this is the place…ceremonies last only five minutes!

The Prince’s Gallery runs the length of the City Hall’s south side and is lined with French windows affording a fabulous view of Lake Malaren and Sodermalm.  This panorama is reflected on the opposite wall by an al fresco called “Stockholm’s Shores” created by Prince  Eugen, artist and brother to King Gustav V.  This area is used as a reception hall for special guests.

Golden Hall

The Three Crowns Chamber was named after the three chandeliers that hang from the beamed ceiling.  The northern and southern walls are covered in silk brocades made in China.

Walk up the staircases and narrow passages of the square tower for impressive views as it is situated on the verge of the archipelago.  There is an elevator that can take you half way up.  The Tower Museum is located in the middle of the tower.

There is an admission fee to the tower that can only be purchased on the day of the visit.  Only 30 tickets are sold at a time as only 30 people can be in the tower at one time.  On good weather days, tickets sell out early.

Stockholm’s City Hall is open to the public through guided tours only.  Due to the large number of events at City Hall, tours can be cancelled.

Peppermint Candy Shops – Gränna, Sweden

The overland trip between Copenhagen, Denmark, and Stockholm, Sweden, can be quite a ride, unless you have something to “sweeten” the journey a bit…literally.

 

Making polkagris in Granna, Sweden

Tucked into the tiny town of Gränna, Sweden, is a centuries old peppermint candy tradition—the village’s only claim to fame.  The polkagris, or striped peppermint candy, has been made here for over 150 years.  Polkagris literally means “polka,” a popular dance of the day, and “pig” (you figure out the connection).

Back in 1859, a poor widow named Amalia Ericksson began to make the peppermint confection to support her and her daughter.  Today Gränna’s streets are lined with a dozen or so shops, where you can watch the candy being made and purchase the finished product.

To make polkagris, sugar, water and vinegar are mixed and heated to 150°C (302°F).  Red coloring and peppermint flavoring are added to one part, and then the colored sugar dough is added to the white sugar dough, and they are pulled and stretched and kneaded and twisted until just the right consistency.  Simple, right?

Join this blogger as she walks you through the village with her narrative and photos.  And watch a candy maker in action as he makes authentic polkagris.

Candy store in Granna

Although peppermint sticks is its claim to fame, there is quite a variety of flavors in this “candy heaven” town. 

Gränna (population 2,500 or so) sits on the eastern shores of Vättern, the second largest inland lake in Sweden, on a busy highway that runs between Gothenburg and Stockholm, which was good business for Amalia…and today’s candy makers as well.

Located less than two miles from Gränna are the ruins of Brahehus Castle built by Count Per Brahe between 1637 and 1650, but abandoned by 1680.  In 1708, the castle was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt.  From the ruins is a fantastic view of Lake Vättern and its island Visingsö.

The Round Tower -- Copenhagen, Denmark

Completed in 1642, The Round Tower, or Rundetaarn, is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe.  It was used by the University of Copenhagen until 1861, but today anyone can view the night sky through the astronomical telescope in the observatory at the top of the tower.  

The Round Tower attached to the church and library

The Round Tower was the first building in the Trinitatis Complex built by King Christian IV linked to the University Church built especially for the scholars and students of Copenhagen’s University.

Building of the tower was inspired by Denmark’s astronomical achievements thanks to the astronomer Tycho Brahe, who died in 1601.

The 40-meter tall tower was built with a unique interior 210-meter long spiral ramp which leads to the top platform.  The whitewashed spiral ramp winds itself 7.5 times around the hollow core of the tower.

On the uppermost façade there is a gilded inscription, like a rebus, which may be interpreted: Lead God, the right teaching and justice into the heart of the crowned King Christian IV, 1642.  The original draft of this written in King Christian’s own hand is housed in the Danish Record Office.

One of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales, The Tinder Box, written in 1835, tells the story of the soldier who meets the dog sitting on the money chests whose eyes are as big as the Round Tower. 

The spiral ramp to the top of the tower and the observatory

The ramp leads also to the library hall (its only entrance), which once housed the entire book collection of the university.  Andersen would visit here for inspiration for his works.  In 1861, the collection had outgrown the library and moved to its present location.  Restored in 1987, it is now used for exhibitions and concerts.

The two original privies still exist – one at the top and the other by the library, which has been restored but no longer in use.  You can actually go in, sit down, and have a look around the smallest room!

Although the spiral ramp is wide enough for an automobile, or horse and carriage in earlier times by Russian Tsar Peter the Great, today it ascended by foot – or by bicycle or unicycle at the annual race!  It is considered an easy climb with places to stop and rest along the way.

Today, a new attraction allows visitors to view the hollow core of the tower by walking on a floating glass floor 25 meters above ground.  The glass is 50 mm thick and can carry up to 900 kg per square meter. 

The center of the tower is from where all distances are measured in Copenhagen.  And the panoramic views are incredible!  Now enjoy a short video tour.