The Burren in Western Ireland

Rolling hills of The Burren

 Not far from the Cliffs of Moher in the west of Ireland lies The Burren, or "Boíreann" meaning a rocky place.  And it is that indeed...close to 125 square miles of limestone rock covering imposing majestic mountains and tranquil valleys with gently meandering streams.  Geologists marvel at underground rivers, caves, depressions, plateaus, and other fascinating geological formations.

Formed millions of years ago under a tropical sea and later carved by glaciers, the flowing ice rounded the hills and left deposits of huge boulders and criss-crossing cracks known as "grikes."  This erosion process left a barren landscape, however it has been referred to in the past as "fertile rock" due to the mixture of nutrient rich herb and floral species.   

In 1651, a Cromwellian Army Officer named Edmund Ludlow remarked, "of this barony it is said that it is a country where there is not water enough to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury them. This last is so scarce that the inhabitants steal it from one another and yet their cattle are very fat. The grass grows in tufts of earth of two or three foot square which lies between the limestone rocks and is very sweet and nourishing."

The Burren region is internationally famous for its landscape and diverse flora.  Summer visits treat the visitor to a colorful array of plants and flowers.  Over 600 different flowering plants have been recorded in the Burren.  Arctic, alpine, and Mediterranean plants thrive side-by-side.

Megalithic tomb - Poulnabrone

The area is also known for more than 90 megalithic tombs, monuments, and ring forts, older than the Egyptian pyramids.  One of the more famous megalithic tombs, the portal dolmen at Poulnabrone, dates back to around 2,500 BC.  'Dolmen' is Breton for 'table', which is what a dolmen looks like - a large capstone on two or three standing stones.

The ring forts also testify to human presence on the Burren, among them the triple ring fort Cahercommaun on the edge of an inland cliff, and the exceptionally well-preserved Caherconnell Stone Fort.

A stop at the Burren Vistor Centre in the picturesque village of Kilfenora, Ireland’s first interpretive centre, presents a 12-minute film that introduces the visitor to this unique and fascinating region.  The exhibition area enables the visitor to experience the development of the Burren and its civilization from formation 320 million years ago to how the Burren is today.

The centre also hosts a celebration of traditional Irish music dedicated to the history and music of  The Kilfenora Céilí Band.

Enjoy this overview video of The Burren (6:39).

The Cliffs of Moher--Ireland

Cliffs of Moher and O'Brien's Tower

One of the most well-known natural wonders in Ireland are the amazing Cliffs of Moher on the island’s western coast which tower over 700 feet above the Atlantic and stretch for over five miles.  Situated in County Clare on the southwestern edge of the Burren region, the towering cliffs were carved by time, ocean, and weather…and the erosion process continues.

On a clear day, one can see from the Aran Islands and Galway in the north to the Dingle Peninsula and Blasket Islands in the south.  O’Brien’s Tower stands near the highest point of the cliffs and has served as a viewpoint for visitors for hundreds of years.  The round stone tower stands midpoint of the cliffs with trails along the edge.

The cliffs were formed millions of years ago when heavy rainfall on land created great floods that washed sand and mud into ancient rivers and then out to sea.  The cliffs are forever changing as the sea constantly erodes the cliffs from the bottom creating caves and sea stacks.

One of the most well-known sea stacks, Branaunmore at the foot of the Cliffs of Moher and below O’Brien’s Tower, stands 220 feet high.  Further west along the coast a number of sea caves have eroded.  One was featured in the 2009 movie Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince.

Several other movies have been filmed in and around the Cliffs of Moher including The Princess Bride (1987), Ryan’s Daughter (1970), and The Guns of Navarone (1961).

Cliff's of Moher

Human presence on the cliffs dates back to the first century BC when a fort called Moher stood where the modern Moher Tower now stands at its southernmost point near Hag’s Head.  Steeped in legend two thousand years ago, the cliffs have served mankind as a place of lookout, fishing, quarrying, collecting eggs and feathers…and in the last few hundred years as a tourist destination.

Lucky visitors to the cliffs are occasionally treated to traditional Irish music when various individuals and groups perform…anything from the Celtic harp to lively Irish jigs and reels.

The Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience built into a hillside provides an in-depth look at the area, and O’Brien’s Tower lies just to the south of this visitor centre.  The tower was built in 1835 by Cornelius O’Brien, a descendant of Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland.

O’Brien was a local landowner and a man ahead of his time.  He believed that the development of tourism could benefit the economy and bring the Irish people out of poverty.

Most likely our visit will not take us on a walking tour along the entire Cliffs of Moher (5:12) as seen in this video, but watching it shows some of the fantastic views along its stretch.  Planning Your Visit to the Cliffs of Moher (7:10) video is excellent to give you an overview of access to the visitor centre and the cliffs near it.

Ulster-American Folk Park, Northern Ireland

Authentic food tasting at Ulster-American Folk Park

Whether your ancestors were Irish emigrants or not, Ulster-American Folk Park is a fascinating place to spend the day.  Located outside of Castletown in the western part of Northern Ireland, this open air museum allows visitors to be transported back in time and experience the life of 18^th and 19^th century Irish emigrants.

Characters in period costumes guide visitors from the thatched cottages of Ulster through a full-scale emigration ship to the log cabins of the American frontier.  This unique experience acquaints the visitor with native crafts, authentic food, and tales of the period.

The indoor exhibition explains the life of these emigrants, the reasons for leaving their native Ireland, and how they adapted to a new land.  The outdoor museum brings to life these people’s daily routines and activities in both the Old and New Worlds.

An Ulster street has been recreated with original shop fronts as well as an American street, all connected by a “walk-through” of a dockside full size galley and ship, the Brig Union.  Visitors are often offered a taste of some local foods, such as smoked salmon and bread cooked in the cottages that line the route.

Visitors also learn about crafts and trades of the era including blacksmithing, coopering, cobbler, clay pipes, wheelwright, and saddler.

The park contains about thirty buildings—some are re-creations while others are painstakingly restored originals, such as the Mellon Homestead, the birthplace of Irish-American banker and lawyer Thomas Mellon.  The home and outbuildings remain in their original location.

Centering around the Mellon home, the Old World section features whole streets of original houses, an original printing press, a bank, an old police barracks, the old Castletown National School, and two churches. 

The New World section features a tinsmith display and the original interior of a Virginia General Store.  Several original American buildings have been relocated to the park including the 1720s Fulton stone house from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania; the 1830 West Virginia home of Richard McCallister removed from Cabell County; and a brick plantation house built by Frances Rogan in the early 1800s in Nashville, Tennessee.

Together they give the visitor a glimpse into the struggles these early emigrants faced before, during, and after a strenuous Atlantic crossing.

Open year-round, the park celebrates various holidays with special events.  Even though, you might not get to visit around these holidays, see what’s happening daily by following them on Facebook!  They regularly post current pictures.

Enjoy this quick video tour of Ulster-American Folk Park (3:46).

This documentary, Out of Ireland: The Story of Irish Emigration to America (1:51:52), tells the story of the Ulster Irish journey to America.

The Ulster-American Folk Park is part of National Museums Northern Ireland, which also includes Ulster Museum, Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, the W5 Science Centre, and Armagh County Museum, all located in various parts of Northern Ireland.

If you would like to search for your Irish ancestors, try these genealogy sites:

Irish Genealogy Toolkit: Top 10 Free Irish Genealogy Databases Online

Street view at Ulster-American Folk Park