Rhodes revisited - Excursion to Philerimos

I noticed after looking more carefully at the optional excursions offered by the cruise line that I had neglected to tell you of another one offered on the island of Rhodes which includes Old Town Rhodes and Philerimos.

It is a 3-hour bus tour with some walking for 47 Euros (price subject to change) a short distance from Old Town Rhodes featuring a monastery set on the beautiful hillsides of Mount Philerimos (sometimes spelled Filerimos).

The tour drives along the medieval walls west of town to Mount Smith, the acropolis of Rhodes which offers panoramic views of the city and harbor. It is named for the English Admiral Sir Sidney Smith who kept watch from there for Napoleon’s fleet in 1802. It is also known as Agios Stephanos.

The hill is the site of a 3rd century BC city featuring a stadium, acropolis, and small theater, or odeion, built in an unusual square shape. Only three columns remain of the mighty Temple of Pythian Apollo. Nearby are the ruins of temples to Athena Polias and Zeus Poliefs.

The summit of Philerimos a short drive away is the next stop on this excursion, and is the site of Ialyssos, one of the three ancient cities of Rhodes. Among the cypress and pines sits the restored Byzantine Church of Our Lady of Philerimos, a complex of four chapels; the main one built in 1306 leads to the other three. The innermost chapel has a Byzantine floor decorated with a red mosaic fish.

The Italians erected a Calvary from the entrance of the monastery in the form of an avenue with the Stations of the Cross illustrated on plaques. On the headland stands a giant 59-ft. cross.

This tour concludes with an easy and flat walking tour of Old Town Rhodes and a stop at a ceramic workshop.

Lindos on the isle of Rhodes

Lindos, a small village on east coast of the island of Rhodes, is featured on one of the optional excursions offered by the cruise ship. The excursion takes you to both Old Town Rhodes and Lindos. In order for you to decide whether you want to spend the extra money on this excursion, it will help to know a little about what you might see. It is located about 55 km south of Rhodes town.

Lindos has been inhabited for some 5,000 years and features picturesque white houses, Crusader castle, and a dramatic acropolis overlooking the sea. As a National Historic Landmark, development is strictly controlled.

It is a tourist town and its narrow, winding cobbled streets can be crowded and quite warm in the summer. Traffic is banned so it retains much of its charm, and donkeys carry people up to the acropolis. Steep stone steps also gain access to the acropolis.

Rich sea captains built the traditional whitewashed houses between the 15th and 18th centuries which are noted for the distinctive carvings on the stonework, like ship’s cables or chains. They are built around choklakia pebble mosaic courtyards.

In the center of the village is the Byzantine church of the Panagia, complete with its graceful bell tower and pantiled domes. It was originally built in the 10th century as a basilica, but was rebuilt in 1489-90. It is noted for its beautiful 16th century frescoes.

On the road up to the acropolis is the Pantheon, a waxwork museum of characters in mythology, including gods and heroes. Also on this road are women who sell the famous Lindian lace.

The jewel of Lindos is the imposing acropolis perched on a sheer 410-foot precipice high above the village. Its highlight is the ruins of the Temple of Lindian Athena built in the 4th century BC with several columns still extant. The temple was one of the most sacred sites in the ancient world visited by Alexander the Great and supposedly by Helen of Troy and Herakles.

A relief of a trireme warship was carved into the rock at the base of the acropolis around 180 BC. In the 13th century, the Knights Hospitallers of St John fortified the city with massive battlements much higher than the original walls and built a castle during the period of the Crusades. The ruins of many structures built over the centuries top the acropolis.

It is believed that Lindos harbor was where St. Paul landed on his visit to Rhodes about 50 AD. St Paul's Bay is named after the monastery which still stands.

Some scenes from the well-known movie, The Guns of Navarone, were filmed here.

Rhodes Old Town

The decision to purchase optionals on the island of Rhodes is, of course, your choice, but my friend who took this cruise did not recommend spending money on any of them. He said that the town of Rhodes offers so much that he preferred using the time to explore it on his own.

So I’m going to provide you with some of the highlights of Rhodes Town so you can make a more informed decision. Rhodes Town is divided into Rhodes Old Town and Rhodes New Town. The more picturesque and interesting parts appear to be in Old Town.

Occupied for over 2,400 years, The Knights of St. John arrived in 1309 and built their citadel over the ancient remains. The Knights medieval citadel, dominated by the towers of the Palace of the Grand Masters, forms the center of Old Town. New Town lies beyond the city walls.

Of the medieval walls’ 11 gates, Koskinou (St. John’s) gate has the best view of the city’s defenses. It leads into the Bourg quarter which has an impressive clock tower. The defensive walls date from 1330 and are 40 feet thick and 2.5 miles long.

The Palace of the Grand Masters is one of the highlights of Old Town. Built in the 14th century it features some priceless mosaics, including the famous Gorgon Medusa Chamber. The central courtyard is paved with geometric tiles.

The palace’s main gate is an imposing structure built with twin horseshoe-shaped towers with swallowtail turrets. The palace is also home to two permanent museum exhibits of Medieval Rhodes and Ancient Rhodes. It is open Tuesday through Sunday; we’ll be visiting on Wednesday.

One of Rhodes Old Town’s most famous sites is the medieval Street of Knights that leads from the harbor to the palace. Also called Odos Ippoton, it is lined with the Inns of the Tongues, or nationalities, of the Order of St. John. The inns were used as meeting places for the knights.

Founded in the 11th century by merchants from Amalfi, the Order of the Hopsitallers of the Knights of St. John guarded the Holy Sepulcher and tended Christian pilgrims in Jerusalem. When Jerusalem fell in 1291, they took refuge in Cyprus and then bought Rhodes in 1306.

A Grand Master was elected for life to govern the order which was divided into seven Tongues, or nationalities: France, Italy, England, Germany, Provence, Spain, and Auvergne. Each Tongue then protected an area of the city wall known as a Curtain.

Great pictures on this site! Here are a couple of videos to give you an idea of a walking tour of Rhodes Town. This video shows a lot of the inside of the Grand Palace.

The Island of Rhodes

Our visit to the island of Rhodes is one of the longest on the tour. We arrive at 7 a.m. and depart at 6 p.m. so we have a bit of time to explore either on our own or on one of the two optional excursions offered by the cruise line.

Rhodes is only 11 miles off the coast of southwest Turkey and is the largest of the Dodecanese Islands. It is shaped like a spearhead and is approximately 50 miles long and 25 miles wide. Rhodes Town is located at the northern tip.

The village of Lindos is located about two-thirds of the way down the island’s south coast and is featured on one of the optional excursions. It is known for its impressive Acropolis built on a rocky outcrop looking out to sea.

Philermos, or Mount Filerimos on some maps, is a short drive just south of Rhodes Town and is featured on the other optional excursion. It features a beautiful monastery dating to the 14th century, Our Lady of Philermos.

The island is most famous for the Colossus of Rhodes, a giant statue of the sun god Helios dating to the 3rd century BC that stood in Rhodes Harbor and was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

This giant bronze statue was documented as once standing at the harbor. It was completed in 280 BC but was destroyed in an earthquake in 224 BC. It no longer exists. Today modern bronze deer statues stand in Mandraki harbor where the Colossus may have stood.

In the first century AD, St. Paul brought Christianity to the island. A long Byzantine era came to an end as the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, or Knights Hospitaller, arrived in 1309 and built the famous medieval walls. The Palace of the Grand Masters was built during this period.

The Ottoman Empire then ruled for four centuries. Rhodes became a part of Greece in 1948.

Optional Cruise Excursions

In the last blog I wrote of one of the optional excursions offered by Louis Cruise Lines on the island of Patmos, so I decided now would be a good time to highlight each of the excursions you will have an opportunity to take. Then when I write about a specific island I’ll again mention the excursion and you will have a better idea of whether to purchase that option or not.

At the end of each excursion, I will put in parentheses the opinion offered by my friend who took this same cruise last spring. Remember that it is his opinion only. You will make you own decision based on information you read before the trip and hopefully the recommendations of our EF tour guide. My goal is simply to inform you and give you something to think about.

Also note that I will give you the most recent cost of each excursion and that the cost may change by the time we sale. These excursions are not offered by EF and can only be purchases on the cruise.

MYKONOS
Due to the afternoon arrival, no optional excursion is offered. We are free to wander around the island on our own.

RHODES (2 optionals)
**Rhodes and Lindos half day (4-1/2 hours; 52 euros) – 45 minute drive by bus along the coastline to Lindos; strenuous uphill climb to the Temple of Athena; time for shopping in the village; drive back to city of Rhodes for a walking tour; short stop at ceramic shop.
**Old City and Philerimos (3 hours; 47 euros) – bus drive along medieval Rhodes walls to harbor once protected by Colossus of Rhodes; drive across island to Philerimos; visit Byzantine Church of Our Lady of Philerimos and free time; return to Rhodes for guided walking tour; visit Grand Masters Palace. (His opinion: He doesn't recommend either tour but seeing Rhodes on your own.)
U
CRETE (2 optionals)
**Palace of Knossos (3 hours; 56 euros) – 30 minute bus drive to Knossos; guided visit to part of the excavations of the prehistoric Minoan civilization Palace of King Minos and the Queen’s Apartment; drive to city of Heraklion; free time shopping in town. Note the King’s Palace and Queen’s Apartment might be closed due to temporary restoration but can be viewed from above…we’ll ask on the ship if they know. Also areas of the Archaeological Museum are open in June but entrance is not included in excursion. (His opinion: he was not that excited about Crete, but another history buff on his tour loved it.)
**Panoramic Heraklion and Wine Tasting (4 hours; 52 euros) – bus drive to wine producing area of Peza through scenic landscapes; visit modern winery; to village of Archanes to visit tavern and wine tasting; photo stop at oldest farmhouse on Crete; drive through4,000 year old olive groves and vineyards. (No one on his tour took this excursion.)

SANTORINI (2 optionals)
**Island Tour and Oia Village (3-1/2 hours; 53 euros) – by bus uphill to view Caldera passing through small villages to unique village of Oia; guided walk through village; free time on own; guided walk to capital town of Fira; free time on own; return to pier of Scala by cable car or mule. (His opinion: He went on his own but only got to see Fira. A member of his group rented a 4-wheeler and rode to Oia. Oia is THE blue domed white washed buildings that you see in all the pictures, so if you want to see it all you may want to opt for this excursion.)
**Santorini Sailing and Volcano(3-1/2 hours; 52 euros) – cruise around the active crater of Nea Kameni islet; guided walk to the top of the volcanic island; swim in the warm waters; sail to harbor and drive by bus to Fira town; free time on own; use ticket to ride cable cars or mules down to Scala pier. Note descending Fira on mule can be uncomfortable as mules lean forward at considerable angle. Walking down, the steps are littered with droppings…and strong odor. It’s a strenuous uphill/downhill walk. (His opinion: Avoid the sailing. The short time you are on Santorini only affords time for one excursion. If you sail, you cannot visit Oia.)

PATMOS (2 optionals)
**Monastery of St. John and Grotto (2 hours; 49 euros) – bus drive to village of Chora; strenuous walk uphill to monastery; tour church and treasury; bus drive to Grotto of the Apocalypse; free time in village. (His opinion: do not need excursion for Patmos. Rent a taxi to grotto. He has visited the monastery but saw only a few interesting items.)
**Tour Around the Island (2-1/2 hours; 34 euros) – scenic bus drive through Chora and its windmills; visit new convent of Evangelismos; drive around island to village of Kambos and treated to refreshment.

KUSADASI (2 optionals)
**Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary (3-1/2 hours; 62 euros) – bus drive to city of Kusadasi along the coast to Mount Koressos; visit small chapel of Virgin Mary; drive to ancient Ephesus; guided walking tour includes Odeon, Fountain of Trajan, Baths of Scolastika, Temple of Hadrian and the Latrians, Library of Celsus, and Great Theatre where St. Paul preached; walk along the Arcadian Way; view grave of St. John and Temple of Artemis (Diana) on return to Kusadasi; free time. Includes walking at certain sites.
**Ancient Ephesus (3 hours; 59 euros) – same as above but without stop at the chapel of Virgin Mary. (His opinion: Without question, the tour of Ancient Ephesus is a must.)

For a detailed itinerary of the entire tour, click here.