Friday, November 10, 2017

Texas Hill Country Scenic Fall Drive – Lost Maples Area

Hiking through Lost Maples State Natural Area in November when the leaves of the Uvalde bigtooth maples turn to yellow and gold is reputedly one of the most scenic in the Texas Hill Country.  But just as impressive is the scenic drive looping around the Lost Maples area.

Just as the season began to dawn, one could see every hue of green from the cedars and evergreen live oaks to the yellow and orange of walnuts, sycamores, and oaks, with a splash of deep gold and red scattered about.  It’s as if God had just sat down for his annual fall painting session, dashing a bit of color here and there.

Fall colors in the Texas Hill Country
And as the sun set, the yellow sparkled to gold and the reds became inflamed.  The most colorful foliage could be seen in low lying areas along creek and river beds where clear skies allowed for mirror reflections in the cool rivers for a double helping of beauty. 

Fall reflections 

Take the time to soak in the colors of fall.  Drive slowly.  Take the back roads.  Enjoy the silence.  Travel during the weekday.  And stop…often…to appreciate the peaceful wonders of the hill country.

FOLLOW THIS PATH…

Drive the loop from Kerrville to Bandera on state highway 16.  The stretch between Kerrville and Medina Children’s Home just north of Medina is serpentine and especially pretty.  From Bandera travel west on FM 470 through Tarpley to Utopia, which is especially scenic between the latter two towns.

The drive out of Utopia on FM 1050 is most dramatic as you drive through hills, valleys, and canyons.  Then take a turn off the beaten path.  Just before you get to US 83, turn north onto FM 2748 toward Rio Frio and continue north on FM 1120 to Leakey.  The views and colors along this stretch of the Frio River are most stunning.  Stop and soak in the colors at river crossings.

Serenity on the Frio River
Head east out of Leakey on FM 337 for the most picturesque drive as you hug the sides of limestone cliffs on a winding hill road toward Vanderpool near Lost Maples State Natural Area.  Take FM 187 north to the junction of state highway 39 where you will criss cross the South Fork of the Guadalupe River for spectacular views just prior to reaching Hunt and on your last stretch between Hunt and Ingram.


Splashes of fall in the Texas Hill Country
ALSO LOOK FOR…

Hill Country white-tailed deer
Pay attention to road signs during any drive through the Texas Hill Country, especially the deer crossing ones…they mean it!  You’ll see plenty of white-tailed deer grazing all over the area in the fall as the first of November is the opening of deer hunting season.  You would be advised not to drive at night, as we saw as many on the road side as a result of accidents in the early morning hours as we saw deer camps along the way.

Although our main focus was viewing the fall foliage, we couldn’t help noticing all the impressive ranch entrances along the way…hundreds of high fence deer and exotic animal ranches whose owners seemed more interested in besting his neighbor with the most elaborate and expansive entrances.

These architectural wonders certainly caught our attention, with names like Bug Scuffle Ranch and Heaven’s Doorstep, and imposing designs to resemble adobe ruins (complete with faux cannon pointing out second story windows) and a massive replica of the famous Texas landmark, the Alamo.

Whether your focus on a fall drive through the Texas Hill Country is the spectacular foliage, white-tailed deer in their natural habitat, or ranch entrances as grandiose as Texas itself, just enjoy the ride.  Sometimes it’s the journey…not the destination.

Enjoy the ride!

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Scandinavia in a Nutshell

Here are a variety of web links to sites that provide additional information on Oslo, Norway; Copenhagen, Denmark; and Stockholm, Sweden.  Many sites list the same attraction, but may give additional information or a new perspective.

Oslo, Norway
OSLO, NORWAY
Rick Steves Oslo Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Oslo.
Trip Advisor’s Top Ten Oslo – get lists and reviews of museums, historic sites, parks, and more.  Click on “See All” for more complete listing.

Copenhagen, Denmark
COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
Rick Steves Copenhagen Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Copenhagen.
Best Things to Do in Copenhagen – US News and World Report
Things to Do in Copenhagen – 10 Best Lists from USA Today

Stockholm, Sweden
STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN
Rick Steves Stockholm Travel Guide – contains information on sites to see and ways (watch, read, listen) to get familiar with Stockholm.
8 Best Things to Do in Stockholm – US News and World Report
Stockholm’s Must Dos – National Geographic City Guide

MAPS
Oslo City Map – Click to enlarge an area
Copenhagen City Map – Click to enlarge an area
Stockholm City Map – Click to enlarge an area

Scandinavia…in general

Rick Steves Travel Talk: Scandinavia – video travel class

Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Elsinore - Kronborg Castle -- near Copenhagen, Denmark

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør is the actual castle that William Shakespeare set Hamlet in.  In his famous play, the castle was called Elsinore, which has become the English name for Helsingør.   Located an hour north of Copenhagen, Denmark, it is still a mystery whether Shakespeare actually ever visited the castle.
Kronborg Castle
 Regardless, he doubtless heard the stories of the beautiful castle and the fabulous banquets held there.  He wrote this world-renowned tragedy around 1600 before the fire devastated the infamous castle.

Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, Kronborg Castle has existed since 1420.  Although it burned to the ground and has been rebuilt, its strategic position at the head of  Øresund Sound placed Helsingør as one of the most important cities in Europe when passing ships were bound to stop and pay tolls before sailing into the Baltic Sea.   

With these Sound Dues, Frederick II adorned the castle with spires, sandstone and copper roofs making it one of the most beautiful castles of the Renaissance period.  Lavish court life vanished after the fire of 1629 taking all its rich furnishings leaving only its exterior walls.
Interior Kronborg Castle

Frederick II had ordered a series of rich tapestries depicting 1,000 years of Danish history to adorn the Ballroom, or Great Hall, built for his queen Sophie.   Of the 43 historic tapestries all but 15 were destroyed in the fire, and seven are on display at Kronborg.

The palace was rebuilt within ten years but never regained its former glory.  The Swedish king Karl Gustav (husband of Queen Hedvig Leonora of Drottningholm Palace fame) plundered Kronborg in 1658-1660 and for 300 years, the castle served only as a fortress and barracks.

Twisted passageways and secret crypts offer a mystique to the castle. These hidden casemates were built 1574-76 after the fire to provide a hiding place for soldiers, their horses, and provisions…enough to feed 1,000 men for six weeks.

Holger Danske
Deep underground visitors will find the imposing statue of Holger the Dane (Holger Danske), a legendary figure in Danish culture.  As the story goes, if Denmark is ever in trouble, he awakes from his rocky throne to defend her.

While touring the castle, use wifi to listen to stories about the castle’s main rooms.  Look for signs with QR codes on window sills.  Scan the code and get the exciting story of the room, what it was used for, and who lived there.  Be sure to have a QR code reader already loaded on your smart phone.

In the summer of 2017, Hamlet characters will take up residence in the halls and chambers of Kronborg Castle.  Although this Hamlet Live tour costs more than a regular admission ticket, visitors just might run into them while they are roaming around the castle.  Don’t be surprised to see Hamlet or Ophelia wandering the halls.

Drottningholm Palace -- Stockholm, Sweden

Drottningholm Palace is the private resident palace of the royal family of Sweden and a UNESCO’s World Heritage Site since 1991.  Built in the French style in the 1600s and patterned after Versailles, it is located on the island of Lovön in Drottningholm outside of Stockholm.
Drottningholm Palace

The rooms in the southern wing are reserved for Their Majesties the King and Queen, but the rest of the palace and grounds are open to the public year round.

The palace was built by architect Nidocemus Tessin the Elder for Queen Hedvig Eleonora, but succeeding monarchs have changed it to fit their own taste and style.  Notable rooms are the bedchamber of Queen Hedvig and others pictured on this site.

The Royal Chapel was inaugurated in May 1746 where royal events have been held for over 250 years.  The Museum de Vries, housed in the old dragoon stables, features original bronze statues from Dutch sculpture Adriaen de Vries, booty that was captured and brought to Sweden in the 1700s.

Although the palace was mostly abandoned during the 1800s, it received much restoration during the 20th century.

Drottningholm Park
The Palace Park, which has undergone many changes over the years, was established during the reign of Johan III, and at that time it was primarily a utility park where the parking lot is now.  The oldest, or baroque, garden, the one closest to the palace, dates from the time of Queen Hedvig and designed by architect Tessin and his son after French gardens which were strict and symmetrical.

At the center of the park stands the grand Hercules fountain with bronze sculptures by de Vries.  The seven cascades, a liberal free interpretation of the original Tessin cascades, lie on either side of the center avenue.

In the mid-1700s, the symmetrical design began to be abandoned for a more natural park design.  Large aviaries were built, but only one remains. Gustav III brought in this design patterned after English gardens.

The Chinese Pavilion and the Palace Theatre are separate buildings that may be seen as you stroll on the palace grounds, but require a separate admission fee to enter.

To reach the palace, cross Lake Mälaren on a century-old steamer.  Travel time is 50 minutes.  There is a restaurant on board the steamer, but riders must purchase food, not drinks only, to sit in there.  Sometimes the boat is crowded in peak season and there may not be enough seating for all passengers.  If the weather is pleasant, standing outdoors would make a memorable scenic journey.

Thursday, April 20, 2017

Stockholm City Hall – Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm’s City Hall, which stands on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, is one of the most famous buildings in the world, primarily for the event held there…the venue for the Nobel Prize Banquet held December 10 every year, the anniversary of Alfred Nobel’s death.
Stockholm City Hall
After 12 years of construction, the building, built in the national romantic style with eight million red brick, was dedicated on Midsummer’s Eve 1923.  The city hall tower rises 106 meters and is topped by three crowns and the Swedish national coat of arms.  It is a workplace for politicians and civil servants.

But its greatest claim to fame is the yearly Nobel Prize Banquet.  Since 1930, with few exceptions, awards are presented first at the Stockholm Concert Hall, then 1,300 guests dine in the Blue Hall at City Hall in one of the world’s most exclusive banquets.  The Nobel Laureates and their families, the Swedish Royal family, representatives of the Swedish national government, and foreign dignitaries all participate.

Swedish Royal Family 
at Nobel Prize Banquet
In fact, the Blue Hall is not blue at all.  Architect Ragnar Östberg originally designed the room to be decorated with blue glazed tiles.  The idea was abandoned, but the name stuck.  The organ with 10,270 pipes is the largest in Scandinavia.

After the meal, guests then proceed up the stairway to the lavish Golden Hall in Stockholm’s City Hall to dance.  Here the walls are covered in more than 18 million gold and glass mosaic pieces, the work of artist Einar Forseth.  Using a Byzantine style, the mosaics depict historical figures and events from Swedish history.

The Golden Hall is dominated by the “Queen of Lake Malaren” on the northern wall which represents Stockholm being honored by the east and the west.

Other notable rooms in the City Hall include the Council Chamber where Stockholm’s city council convenes every third Monday.  This majestic room was inspired by Sweden’s Viking Age.

The Oval is an antechamber decorated with a series of five 300-year-old tapestries made in Beauvais, France.  Every Saturday, civil weddings and partnership registrations are conducted here.  If you are looking for a “quicky” wedding, this is the place…ceremonies last only five minutes!

The Prince’s Gallery runs the length of the City Hall’s south side and is lined with French windows affording a fabulous view of Lake Malaren and Sodermalm.  This panorama is reflected on the opposite wall by an al fresco called “Stockholm’s Shores” created by Prince  Eugen, artist and brother to King Gustav V.  This area is used as a reception hall for special guests.

Golden Hall
The Three Crowns Chamber was named after the three chandeliers that hang from the beamed ceiling.  The northern and southern walls are covered in silk brocades made in China.

Walk up the staircases and narrow passages of the square tower for impressive views as it is situated on the verge of the archipelago.  There is an elevator that can take you half way up.  The Tower Museum is located in the middle of the tower.

There is an admission fee to the tower that can only be purchased on the day of the visit.  Only 30 tickets are sold at a time as only 30 people can be in the tower at one time.  On good weather days, tickets sell out early.

Stockholm’s City Hall is open to the public through guided tours only.  Due to the large number of events at City Hall, tours can be cancelled.

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Peppermint Candy Shops – Gränna, Sweden

The overland trip between Copenhagen, Denmark, and Stockholm, Sweden, can be quite a ride, unless you have something to “sweeten” the journey a bit…literally.
 
Making polkagris in Granna, Sweden
Tucked into the tiny town of Gränna, Sweden, is a centuries old peppermint candy tradition—the village’s only claim to fame.  The polkagris, or striped peppermint candy, has been made here for over 150 years.  Polkagris literally means “polka,” a popular dance of the day, and “pig” (you figure out the connection).

Back in 1859, a poor widow named Amalia Ericksson began to make the peppermint confection to support her and her daughter.  Today Gränna’s streets are lined with a dozen or so shops, where you can watch the candy being made and purchase the finished product.

To make polkagris, sugar, water and vinegar are mixed and heated to 150°C (302°F).  Red coloring and peppermint flavoring are added to one part, and then the colored sugar dough is added to the white sugar dough, and they are pulled and stretched and kneaded and twisted until just the right consistency.  Simple, right?

Join this blogger as she walks you through the village with her narrative and photos.  And watch a candy maker in action as he makes authentic polkagris.
Candy store in Granna

Although peppermint sticks is its claim to fame, there is quite a variety of flavors in this “candy heaven” town. 

Gränna (population 2,500 or so) sits on the eastern shores of Vättern, the second largest inland lake in Sweden, on a busy highway that runs between Gothenburg and Stockholm, which was good business for Amalia…and today’s candy makers as well.

Located less than two miles from Gränna are the ruins of Brahehus Castle built by Count Per Brahe between 1637 and 1650, but abandoned by 1680.  In 1708, the castle was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt.  From the ruins is a fantastic view of Lake Vättern and its island Visingsö.



Tuesday, April 4, 2017

The Round Tower -- Copenhagen, Denmark

Completed in 1642, The Round Tower, or Rundetaarn, is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe.  It was used by the University of Copenhagen until 1861, but today anyone can view the night sky through the astronomical telescope in the observatory at the top of the tower.  

The Round Tower attached to the church and library
The Round Tower was the first building in the Trinitatis Complex built by King Christian IV linked to the University Church built especially for the scholars and students of Copenhagen’s University.

Building of the tower was inspired by Denmark’s astronomical achievements thanks to the astronomer Tycho Brahe, who died in 1601.

The 40-meter tall tower was built with a unique interior 210-meter long spiral ramp which leads to the top platform.  The whitewashed spiral ramp winds itself 7.5 times around the hollow core of the tower.

On the uppermost façade there is a gilded inscription, like a rebus, which may be interpreted: Lead God, the right teaching and justice into the heart of the crowned King Christian IV, 1642.  The original draft of this written in King Christian’s own hand is housed in the Danish Record Office.

One of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales, The Tinder Box, written in 1835, tells the story of the soldier who meets the dog sitting on the money chests whose eyes are as big as the Round Tower. 

The spiral ramp to the top of the tower and the observatory
The ramp leads also to the library hall (its only entrance), which once housed the entire book collection of the university.  Andersen would visit here for inspiration for his works.  In 1861, the collection had outgrown the library and moved to its present location.  Restored in 1987, it is now used for exhibitions and concerts.

The two original privies still exist – one at the top and the other by the library, which has been restored but no longer in use.  You can actually go in, sit down, and have a look around the smallest room!

Although the spiral ramp is wide enough for an automobile, or horse and carriage in earlier times by Russian Tsar Peter the Great, today it ascended by foot – or by bicycle or unicycle at the annual race!  It is considered an easy climb with places to stop and rest along the way.

Today, a new attraction allows visitors to view the hollow core of the tower by walking on a floating glass floor 25 meters above ground.  The glass is 50 mm thick and can carry up to 900 kg per square meter. 

The center of the tower is from where all distances are measured in Copenhagen.  And the panoramic views are incredible!  Now enjoy a short video tour.

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Vigeland Sculpture Park – Oslo, Norway

Oslo is home to the world’s largest sculpture park with over 200 statues created by a single artist – Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943).  Although Vigeland also designed and completed the layout of the park over a 10-year period, it represents his lifework.  But, be prepared…it’s not your typical park!
Vigeland Sculpture Park

More accurately called the Vigeland installation at Frogner Park, the sculpture area covers 80 acres and is home to 212 bronze, granite, and cast iron sculptures.  The 100-metre long Bridge lined with 58 sculptures connects the Main Gate and “The Fountain” to “The Monolith” beyond.

The twisty, twirly statues in the park are organized in a straight-line axis about the length of two football fields.  As you walk, you’re supposed to be following mankind’s journey through life – from the cradle to the grave.

The sculptures represent one man’s exploration of the human form at every age of man…from babies to old men and women.
"Man Attacked by Babies"

The sculptures feature humans in everyday activities, such as walking, sitting, and holding hands to the more abstract and bizarre, such as “Man Attacked by Babies” and a relief where a skeleton emerges from between two entwined lovers.

The highlight of the park is “The Fountain,” originally designed to stand in front of the Norwegian Parliament.  But the location proved controversial with its 60 individual bronze reliefs representing the circle of life and 20 tree sculptures of children, teenagers, old men, and skeletons.

The bronze statue of the little “Angry Boy” is one the most famous statues as is the Monolith and the Wheel of Life.  You’ll find the little boy statue on the bridge.

"The Monolith"
The Monolith” is the focal point of the park.  The 46-foot high sculpture features 121 entwined human figures, meant to represent the human desire to reach out to the divine.  It took the sculpture 14 years to create with the help of three other stone carvers.  In addition, 36 sculptural groups reside on the plateau along with the monolith.

The Wheel of Life” is a sundial positioned at the end of the 850-meter axis representing eternity with four human figures and a baby locked in a circle, floating in harmony.

And did I mention that all these outdoor sculptures are…well, nude—every one of them.  Be prepared for an eye-opening experience!

Enjoy this “Walk Through Vigeland Park” video.

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

Viking Ship Museum – Oslo, Norway

The Viking Ship Museum just outside of Oslo, Norway, on the Bygdøy peninsula houses the world’s best preserved Viking ships and finds from Viking tombs around the Oslo Fjord.

It shows discoveries from the Gokstad, Oseberg and Tune ships, plus small boats, sledges, a beautiful cart, tools, textiles and household utensils.

Gokstad ship
Unearthed by two teenagers in 1879, the Gokstad ship was built around 900 AD and later used as a burial ship for a powerful man.  The ship was very seaworthy and well suited for voyages across the open sea.  The ship is constructed from oak timbers and is about 23 meters long and about 5 meters wide.  It was equipped with 32 shields hanging on either side of the boat and painted alternately in gold and black.  In the burial chamber lay the body of a man in his 40s.  Signs of cutting blows to both legs indicate he died in battle.

Grave robbers have long since plundered the grave; no weapons or jewelry were found among the burial gifts.  However, the finds included a game board with game pieces, a harness fitting of iron, lead and gilded bronze, kitchen utensils, six beds, a tent, a sledge, and three small boats.  Also buried in the grave were 12 horses, eight dogs, two peacocks, and two goshawks. 

Oseberg ship
Discovered in 1903, the Oseberg ship was built around 820 AD.  The ship is constructed from oak timbers and is decorated with beautiful carvings.  The ship is about 22 meters long and about 5 meters wide.  The ship was fully manned with a crew of thirty oarsmen, a helmsman, and a lookout.

The ship was used as a burial ship for two powerful women.  The elder of them was between the ages of 70 and 80 when she died; the younger was a little over the age of 50.  On their final journey to the realm of the dead, the two women were given a fantastic collection of burial gifts: including three elaborate sleds, a cart, five carved animal-head posts, five beds with various tapestries, along with 15 horses, six dogs, and two cows. 

Tune ship
The Tune ship was discovered in 1867, and that makes it the first Viking ship to be discovered and preserved in modern times.  The ship was clinker-built of oak and dates back to about 910 AD.  The Tune ship was probably a fast, ocean-going vessel.  The remains of a man’s body was found in the burial chamber.  Among the artefacts found in the grave were the remains of weapons and a suit of chain mail, pieces of a ski, and the skeletons of three horses.  This ship is exhibited as it was found as early archaeological digs did not preserve finds very well. 

Enjoy this 24-minute Virtual Field Trip at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo video with a narrative by a Norwegian archaeologist telling about the Oseberg and Gokstad ships and Viking history.  It was streamed live 24 January 2017.

A special interactive film exhibit opens beside the Tune ship in April 2017 as visitors experience the Viking Age in 3D projected on the ceiling and back wall.

The ticket for the Viking Ship Museum is actually good for two museums in one.  With this ticket you can also obtain free entry to the Historical Museum within 48 hours.  

Monday, March 6, 2017

Scandinavia -- Overview of Norway, Denmark, Sweden

Get ready to explore three capital cities in three remarkable Scandinavian countries—Oslo, Norway; Copenhagen, Denmark; and Stockholm Sweden.  New adventures…new cultures…new direction – North!  

Here’s a general overview of what to expect.  Let’s cover some basics, like time, weather, language, and currency.  And then let travel guru Rick Steves take you on a short tour of each of the capitals.

The time in all three capitals is seven hours ahead of central standard time in the U.S.

Oslo, Norway
Land of Vikings
Oslo – Land of the Midnight Sun and home of Viking kings and canyon-cut fjords!  Expect the weather in June to be cooler than we are used to in the summer…and that could be a welcome change come June.  The average temperature for June is about 15 degrees Celsius or around 60 degrees Farenheit.  Try this weather calculator for other Celsius temps.  Nights of course are cooler, but during the day, as always, dress in layers.  In the “land of the midnight sun,” June days could have up to 19 hours of daylight!

Norwegian is the official language of Norway and the most widely spoken, however English is a common second language for most in the country.  Use Google Translate to learn a few basic courtesy phrases in Norwegian, such as hello, please, and thank you.  (Note: click the microphone button to hear the pronunciation.)

The cost of living in Norway is one of the most expensive in the world.  High taxation, which provides a variety of social services, is a contributing factor.  This, of course, affects tourists.  The Norwegian currency is the “krone,” (or plural kroner) which is worth roughly 12 cents US.  So something that costs 1000 kroner is about $118 US.  Use this currency calculator to better understand the exchange rate for NOK (Norwegian kroner). These financial travel tips from Visit Norway will help you plan our visit. 

To get an overview of Oslo, watch this video from travel guru Rick Steves: Oslo.

Copenhagen, Denmark
Copenhagen

Danish is the official language of Denmark, but English is commonly spoken here too.  Again, use Google Translate to learn some key phrases.

The Danish “krone” (plural kroner) is the official currency of Denmark.  It’s the same name as Norwegian, but a different currency.  Use the currency converter to learn the exchange for the DKK.  One Danish krone is about 14 cents US, so something that costs 1000 kroner in Denmark would cost about $142 US.  The cost of living in Denmark is also expensive.  Compare some costs of everyday things at this site.

To get an overview of Copenhagen, watch this video from Rick Steves: Copenhagen.

Stockholm, Sweden
Old Town Stockholm
Again expect June weather in Stockholm to be very similar to Oslo and Copenhagen with cooler summers around 60 degrees.  A day in June in Stockholm will also give you plenty of daylight…over 18 hours worth.

Swedish is the national language of Sweden, but here too, English is quite popular.  Get a feel for the native language by using Google Translate to hear some pronunciations of phrases you might encounter.

The Swedish “krona (plural kronor)…sound familiar?... is the currency of Sweden.  And yes it is spelled a bit differently.  (They’ve got to be unique somehow, right?)  One krona (SEK) is worth about 11 cents US, so spending 1000 kronor would be about $111 US.

To get an overview of Stockholm, watch this video from Rick Steves: Stockholm.

Learn more about these Scandinavian countries in this hour long video from Rick Steves Travel Talk: Scandinavia.  It has a lot of pertinent and practical information about traveling to Oslo, Copenhagen, and Stockholm.

Tour forecast…remarkable journey!