Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Glencoe, Scotland

Renowned as one of the most famous and beautiful glens in Scotland, Glencoe is also notoriously well-known as one of Scotland’s battlegrounds—site of the tragic massacre of the MacDonald clan 13 February 1692 by forces representing King William III following the Glorious Revolution.

History

Officially called GlenCoe (the glen through which runs the River Coe), the lands were owned by the Clans MacDonald since the 14th century when they supported King Robert the Bruce.  But when King William came to the throne, many of the highlanders still swore allegiance to the deposed Scottish King James VII.  These highlanders were known as Jacobites.

Glencoe Massacre
Memorial
All the Scottish clan chiefs were ordered by the Secretary of State John Dalrymple to swear allegiance to the English crown by 1 January 1692.  The MacDonalds, who still supported the return of King James, held out, but eventually, with time running out on the deadline, received news from James in exile in France to honor the new order only days before the deadline.

As luck would have it, a terrible winter storm kept the clan chieftain from reaching Fort William until December 31, only one day short of the deadline.  Here he was told that the oath must be taken by a sheriff 60 miles away, and a series of unfortunate events hindered him even further.

Unbeknownst to the MacDonald clan, their fate had already been sealed by Dalrymple, who orchestrated the coming massacre.  Soldiers from the Campbell clan arrived in Glencoe as friends seeking shelter, but had been instructed by Dalrymple to slaughter all MacDonalds under age 70.

Inscription on Memorial
Honoring the Highland code, the MacDonalds gave shelter in their homes to the Campbells for 12 days, until the wee hours of February 13 when the systematic massacre began.  By morning 38 men, women, and children lay dead including the clan chief.  Many of those who escaped died of exposure from the winter weather in the mountains.  A few of the Campbell soldiers gave warning to their host families and broke their swords, refusing to participate in the atrocity. 

The Jacobites in Edinburgh were enraged, an inquiry was held and declared the affair an act of murder forcing Dalrymple to resign, but not until 1695…and the event passed into legend in Scottish history.

For an in-depth 7-part video series on the massacre, watch “The Murder of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe.” Here is Part 1 (9:48).  Simply search YouTube for this title and select the remaining parts to view.  Each segment is about 9 minutes long.

In poetry, enjoy T.S. Elliot’s Rannoch, by Glencoe or Douglas Alexander Stewart’s Glencoe.  The 300-year-old document still exists that mandated the massacre and is housed in the National Library of Scotland.  Hear the chilling document read here.

Natural Beauty

Today, few people inhabit the glen except for those in the village of Glencoe which sits at the western entrance to the glen and features a visitor center maintained by the National Trust for Scotland hosting a 15-minute video highlighting the 1692 massacre, as well as exhibits on the natural beauty, wildlife, and history of the area. 
Glencoe, Scotland 
The u-shaped glen was formed by an ice age glacier and is surrounded by spectacular mountains which are a haven for hikers, walkers and rock/ice climbers.  The valley is 10 miles long but less than a half mile wide as mountains rise sharply on all sides up to 3,000 feet such Buchaille Etive Mor, the huge mountain seen as you enter the glen from the bleak expanse of Rannoch Moor.

The magnificent scenic drive through the area will feature high mountain peaks, ridges, rushing rivers, lochs, and mystical waterfalls.  Of note is the Devil’s Staircase, the Three Sisters, the Aonach Eagach, and 8 Munros.

Enjoy this scenic video journey through “Beautiful Scotland - Glencoe” (8:29).

Modern Culture

The pristine beauty and unpolluted air of Glencoe has been a draw to film makers for over 70 years.  Many scenes from Braveheart and Rob Roy were filmed in Glencoe.

The area was used as the home of Hagrid in the filming of Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and in the James Bond movie Skyfall.  It is noted in the Ian Fleming novels as the birthplace of James Bond’s father, Andrew Bond.
Hagrid's hut from Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban

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