Stockholm City Hall – Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm’s City Hall, which stands on the eastern tip of Kungsholmen Island, is one of the most famous buildings in the world, primarily for the event held there…the venue for the Nobel Prize Banquet held December 10 every year, the anniversary of Alfred Nobel’s death.

Stockholm City Hall

After 12 years of construction, the building, built in the national romantic style with eight million red brick, was dedicated on Midsummer’s Eve 1923.  The city hall tower rises 106 meters and is topped by three crowns and the Swedish national coat of arms.  It is a workplace for politicians and civil servants.

But its greatest claim to fame is the yearly Nobel Prize Banquet.  Since 1930, with few exceptions, awards are presented first at the Stockholm Concert Hall, then 1,300 guests dine in the Blue Hall at City Hall in one of the world’s most exclusive banquets.  The Nobel Laureates and their families, the Swedish Royal family, representatives of the Swedish national government, and foreign dignitaries all participate.

Swedish Royal Family 
at Nobel Prize Banquet

In fact, the Blue Hall is not blue at all.  Architect Ragnar Östberg originally designed the room to be decorated with blue glazed tiles.  The idea was abandoned, but the name stuck.  The organ with 10,270 pipes is the largest in Scandinavia.

After the meal, guests then proceed up the stairway to the lavish Golden Hall in Stockholm’s City Hall to dance.  Here the walls are covered in more than 18 million gold and glass mosaic pieces, the work of artist Einar Forseth.  Using a Byzantine style, the mosaics depict historical figures and events from Swedish history.

The Golden Hall is dominated by the “Queen of Lake Malaren” on the northern wall which represents Stockholm being honored by the east and the west.

Other notable rooms in the City Hall include the Council Chamber where Stockholm’s city council convenes every third Monday.  This majestic room was inspired by Sweden’s Viking Age.

The Oval is an antechamber decorated with a series of five 300-year-old tapestries made in Beauvais, France.  Every Saturday, civil weddings and partnership registrations are conducted here.  If you are looking for a “quicky” wedding, this is the place…ceremonies last only five minutes!

The Prince’s Gallery runs the length of the City Hall’s south side and is lined with French windows affording a fabulous view of Lake Malaren and Sodermalm.  This panorama is reflected on the opposite wall by an al fresco called “Stockholm’s Shores” created by Prince  Eugen, artist and brother to King Gustav V.  This area is used as a reception hall for special guests.

Golden Hall

The Three Crowns Chamber was named after the three chandeliers that hang from the beamed ceiling.  The northern and southern walls are covered in silk brocades made in China.

Walk up the staircases and narrow passages of the square tower for impressive views as it is situated on the verge of the archipelago.  There is an elevator that can take you half way up.  The Tower Museum is located in the middle of the tower.

There is an admission fee to the tower that can only be purchased on the day of the visit.  Only 30 tickets are sold at a time as only 30 people can be in the tower at one time.  On good weather days, tickets sell out early.

Stockholm’s City Hall is open to the public through guided tours only.  Due to the large number of events at City Hall, tours can be cancelled.

Peppermint Candy Shops – Gränna, Sweden

The overland trip between Copenhagen, Denmark, and Stockholm, Sweden, can be quite a ride, unless you have something to “sweeten” the journey a bit…literally.

 

Making polkagris in Granna, Sweden

Tucked into the tiny town of Gränna, Sweden, is a centuries old peppermint candy tradition—the village’s only claim to fame.  The polkagris, or striped peppermint candy, has been made here for over 150 years.  Polkagris literally means “polka,” a popular dance of the day, and “pig” (you figure out the connection).

Back in 1859, a poor widow named Amalia Ericksson began to make the peppermint confection to support her and her daughter.  Today Gränna’s streets are lined with a dozen or so shops, where you can watch the candy being made and purchase the finished product.

To make polkagris, sugar, water and vinegar are mixed and heated to 150°C (302°F).  Red coloring and peppermint flavoring are added to one part, and then the colored sugar dough is added to the white sugar dough, and they are pulled and stretched and kneaded and twisted until just the right consistency.  Simple, right?

Join this blogger as she walks you through the village with her narrative and photos.  And watch a candy maker in action as he makes authentic polkagris.

Candy store in Granna

Although peppermint sticks is its claim to fame, there is quite a variety of flavors in this “candy heaven” town. 

Gränna (population 2,500 or so) sits on the eastern shores of Vättern, the second largest inland lake in Sweden, on a busy highway that runs between Gothenburg and Stockholm, which was good business for Amalia…and today’s candy makers as well.

Located less than two miles from Gränna are the ruins of Brahehus Castle built by Count Per Brahe between 1637 and 1650, but abandoned by 1680.  In 1708, the castle was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt.  From the ruins is a fantastic view of Lake Vättern and its island Visingsö.

The Round Tower -- Copenhagen, Denmark

Completed in 1642, The Round Tower, or Rundetaarn, is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe.  It was used by the University of Copenhagen until 1861, but today anyone can view the night sky through the astronomical telescope in the observatory at the top of the tower.  

The Round Tower attached to the church and library

The Round Tower was the first building in the Trinitatis Complex built by King Christian IV linked to the University Church built especially for the scholars and students of Copenhagen’s University.

Building of the tower was inspired by Denmark’s astronomical achievements thanks to the astronomer Tycho Brahe, who died in 1601.

The 40-meter tall tower was built with a unique interior 210-meter long spiral ramp which leads to the top platform.  The whitewashed spiral ramp winds itself 7.5 times around the hollow core of the tower.

On the uppermost façade there is a gilded inscription, like a rebus, which may be interpreted: Lead God, the right teaching and justice into the heart of the crowned King Christian IV, 1642.  The original draft of this written in King Christian’s own hand is housed in the Danish Record Office.

One of Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tales, The Tinder Box, written in 1835, tells the story of the soldier who meets the dog sitting on the money chests whose eyes are as big as the Round Tower. 

The spiral ramp to the top of the tower and the observatory

The ramp leads also to the library hall (its only entrance), which once housed the entire book collection of the university.  Andersen would visit here for inspiration for his works.  In 1861, the collection had outgrown the library and moved to its present location.  Restored in 1987, it is now used for exhibitions and concerts.

The two original privies still exist – one at the top and the other by the library, which has been restored but no longer in use.  You can actually go in, sit down, and have a look around the smallest room!

Although the spiral ramp is wide enough for an automobile, or horse and carriage in earlier times by Russian Tsar Peter the Great, today it ascended by foot – or by bicycle or unicycle at the annual race!  It is considered an easy climb with places to stop and rest along the way.

Today, a new attraction allows visitors to view the hollow core of the tower by walking on a floating glass floor 25 meters above ground.  The glass is 50 mm thick and can carry up to 900 kg per square meter. 

The center of the tower is from where all distances are measured in Copenhagen.  And the panoramic views are incredible!  Now enjoy a short video tour.

Vigeland Sculpture Park – Oslo, Norway

Oslo is home to the world’s largest sculpture park with over 200 statues created by a single artist – Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943).  Although Vigeland also designed and completed the layout of the park over a 10-year period, it represents his lifework.  But, be prepared…it’s not your typical park!

Vigeland Sculpture Park

More accurately called the Vigeland installation at Frogner Park, the sculpture area covers 80 acres and is home to 212 bronze, granite, and cast iron sculptures.  The 100-metre long Bridge lined with 58 sculptures connects the Main Gate and “The Fountain” to “The Monolith” beyond.

The twisty, twirly statues in the park are organized in a straight-line axis about the length of two football fields.  As you walk, you’re supposed to be following mankind’s journey through life – from the cradle to the grave.

The sculptures represent one man’s exploration of the human form at every age of man…from babies to old men and women.

"Man Attacked by Babies"

The sculptures feature humans in everyday activities, such as walking, sitting, and holding hands to the more abstract and bizarre, such as “Man Attacked by Babies” and a relief where a skeleton emerges from between two entwined lovers.

The highlight of the park is “The Fountain,” originally designed to stand in front of the Norwegian Parliament.  But the location proved controversial with its 60 individual bronze reliefs representing the circle of life and 20 tree sculptures of children, teenagers, old men, and skeletons.

The bronze statue of the little “Angry Boy” is one the most famous statues as is the Monolith and the Wheel of Life.  You’ll find the little boy statue on the bridge.

"The Monolith"

“The Monolith” is the focal point of the park.  The 46-foot high sculpture features 121 entwined human figures, meant to represent the human desire to reach out to the divine.  It took the sculpture 14 years to create with the help of three other stone carvers.  In addition, 36 sculptural groups reside on the plateau along with the monolith.

“The Wheel of Life” is a sundial positioned at the end of the 850-meter axis representing eternity with four human figures and a baby locked in a circle, floating in harmony.

And did I mention that all these outdoor sculptures are…well, nude—every one of them.  Be prepared for an eye-opening experience!

Enjoy this “Walk Through Vigeland Park” video.

Viking Ship Museum – Oslo, Norway

The Viking Ship Museum just outside of Oslo, Norway, on the Bygdøy peninsula houses the world’s best preserved Viking ships and finds from Viking tombs around the Oslo Fjord.

It shows discoveries from the Gokstad, Oseberg and Tune ships, plus small boats, sledges, a beautiful cart, tools, textiles and household utensils.

Gokstad ship

Unearthed by two teenagers in 1879, the Gokstad ship was built around 900 AD and later used as a burial ship for a powerful man.  The ship was very seaworthy and well suited for voyages across the open sea.  The ship is constructed from oak timbers and is about 23 meters long and about 5 meters wide.  It was equipped with 32 shields hanging on either side of the boat and painted alternately in gold and black.  In the burial chamber lay the body of a man in his 40s.  Signs of cutting blows to both legs indicate he died in battle.

Grave robbers have long since plundered the grave; no weapons or jewelry were found among the burial gifts.  However, the finds included a game board with game pieces, a harness fitting of iron, lead and gilded bronze, kitchen utensils, six beds, a tent, a sledge, and three small boats.  Also buried in the grave were 12 horses, eight dogs, two peacocks, and two goshawks. 

Oseberg ship

Discovered in 1903, the Oseberg ship was built around 820 AD.  The ship is constructed from oak timbers and is decorated with beautiful carvings.  The ship is about 22 meters long and about 5 meters wide.  The ship was fully manned with a crew of thirty oarsmen, a helmsman, and a lookout.

The ship was used as a burial ship for two powerful women.  The elder of them was between the ages of 70 and 80 when she died; the younger was a little over the age of 50.  On their final journey to the realm of the dead, the two women were given a fantastic collection of burial gifts: including three elaborate sleds, a cart, five carved animal-head posts, five beds with various tapestries, along with 15 horses, six dogs, and two cows. 

Tune ship

The Tune ship was discovered in 1867, and that makes it the first Viking ship to be discovered and preserved in modern times.  The ship was clinker-built of oak and dates back to about 910 AD.  The Tune ship was probably a fast, ocean-going vessel.  The remains of a man’s body was found in the burial chamber.  Among the artefacts found in the grave were the remains of weapons and a suit of chain mail, pieces of a ski, and the skeletons of three horses.  This ship is exhibited as it was found as early archaeological digs did not preserve finds very well. 

Enjoy this 24-minute Virtual Field Trip at the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo video with a narrative by a Norwegian archaeologist telling about the Oseberg and Gokstad ships and Viking history.  It was streamed live 24 January 2017.

A special interactive film exhibit opens beside the Tune ship in April 2017 as visitors experience the Viking Age in 3D projected on the ceiling and back wall.

The ticket for the Viking Ship Museum is actually good for two museums in one.  With this ticket you can also obtain free entry to the Historical Museum within 48 hours.  

Scandinavia -- Overview of Norway, Denmark, Sweden

Get ready to explore three capital cities in three remarkable Scandinavian countries—Oslo, Norway; Copenhagen, Denmark; and Stockholm Sweden.  New adventures…new cultures…new direction – North!  

Here’s a general overview of what to expect.  Let’s cover some basics, like time, weather, language, and currency.  And then let travel guru Rick Steves take you on a short tour of each of the capitals.

The time in all three capitals is seven hours ahead of central standard time in the U.S.

Oslo, Norway

Land of Vikings

Oslo – Land of the Midnight Sun and home of Viking kings and canyon-cut fjords!  Expect the weather in June to be cooler than we are used to in the summer…and that could be a welcome change come June.  The average temperature for June is about 15 degrees Celsius or around 60 degrees Farenheit.  Try this weather calculator for other Celsius temps.  Nights of course are cooler, but during the day, as always, dress in layers.  In the “land of the midnight sun,” June days could have up to 19 hours of daylight!

Norwegian is the official language of Norway and the most widely spoken, however English is a common second language for most in the country.  Use Google Translate to learn a few basic courtesy phrases in Norwegian, such as hello, please, and thank you.  (Note: click the microphone button to hear the pronunciation.)

The cost of living in Norway is one of the most expensive in the world.  High taxation, which provides a variety of social services, is a contributing factor.  This, of course, affects tourists.  The Norwegian currency is the “krone,” (or plural kroner) which is worth roughly 12 cents US.  So something that costs 1000 kroner is about $118 US.  Use this currency calculator to better understand the exchange rate for NOK (Norwegian kroner). These financial travel tips from Visit Norway will help you plan our visit. 

To get an overview of Oslo, watch this video from travel guru Rick Steves: Oslo.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Copenhagen

The average June day temperature here is also around 15 degrees Celsius, or 60 degrees Farhenheit.  Summer days in Denmark tend to be long with sunrise at 4:30 a.m. and sunset at 10 p.m. on its longest day.

Danish is the official language of Denmark, but English is commonly spoken here too.  Again, use Google Translate to learn some key phrases.

The Danish “krone” (plural kroner) is the official currency of Denmark.  It’s the same name as Norwegian, but a different currency.  Use the currency converter to learn the exchange for the DKK.  One Danish krone is about 14 cents US, so something that costs 1000 kroner in Denmark would cost about $142 US.  The cost of living in Denmark is also expensive.  Compare some costs of everyday things at this site.

To get an overview of Copenhagen, watch this video from Rick Steves: Copenhagen.

Stockholm, Sweden

Old Town Stockholm

Again expect June weather in Stockholm to be very similar to Oslo and Copenhagen with cooler summers around 60 degrees.  A day in June in Stockholm will also give you plenty of daylight…over 18 hours worth.

Swedish is the national language of Sweden, but here too, English is quite popular.  Get a feel for the native language by using Google Translate to hear some pronunciations of phrases you might encounter.

The Swedish “krona” (plural kronor)…sound familiar?... is the currency of Sweden.  And yes it is spelled a bit differently.  (They’ve got to be unique somehow, right?)  One krona (SEK) is worth about 11 cents US, so spending 1000 kronor would be about $111 US.

To get an overview of Stockholm, watch this video from Rick Steves: Stockholm.

Learn more about these Scandinavian countries in this hour long video from Rick Steves Travel Talk: Scandinavia.  It has a lot of pertinent and practical information about traveling to Oslo, Copenhagen, and Stockholm.

Tour forecast…remarkable journey!

Capitals of Scandinavia Itinerary

Day 1: Fly overnight to Norway

Days 2-3: Oslo, Norway

–View beautifully preserved 9th-century Viking ships when you stop at the Bygdøy Peninsula during your walking tour

–Look for former resident Henrik Ibsen’s statue outside the National Theatre. The acclaimed playwright lunched every day at the Grand Hotel, the same site that holds the annual Nobel Peace Prize banquet

–Enjoy a stroll along the harbor as you pass the 19th-century buildings of Oslo University and the Parliament. Keep an eye out for the plumed guardsmen of the Royal Palace.

– Take a guided tour of Oslo, including the Rådhuset (Town Hall)

– Visit the Viking Museum

– Visit the Vigeland Sculpture Park

– Board an overnight ferry to Copenhagen

Day 4: Copenhagen, Denmark

– Arrive in Copenhagen, Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy-tale city

– During your guided tour of Copenhagen you’ll pass by Tivoli Gardens, the city’s lively amusement park and inspiration behind Walt Disney’s Disney World

–Continue your stroll to Christiansborg Palace, the seat of the Danish Parliament, the Danish Prime Minister’s Office, and the Supreme Court of Denmark

– Wander through Old Town and City Hall Square during your walking tour of Copenhagen

– Climb the 17th-century Round Tower, Europe’s oldest functioning observatory. A winding, 685-foot staircase links the tower to a church and library, which now serve as a concert and exhibition hall. See if you can make out the gilded inscription penned by King Christian IV high atop the façade

Days 5: Copenhagen

– Time to explore more of Copenhagen on your own

Day 6: Gränna and Stockholm, Sweden

– Travel by bus to Gränna, Sweden and visit a historic peppermint rock candy factory and lunch

– Continue travel by bus over Oeresund Bridge to Stockholm

Day 7: Stockholm, Sweden

– Take a guided tour of Stockholm

– Visit the Stockholm Town Hall and admire the lavishly decorated Golden Hall, which hosts Nobel Prize festivities annually

– Journey to the island of Djurgården to visit Vasa, a well-restored 17th-century warship. King Gustavus Adolphus demanded that this ornate eight-level ship be created with two gun decks (as opposed to the standard one). However, when the ship went out for its maiden voyage, a gust of wind sank Vasa before it could even leave the city’s harbor. The ship’s wreckage was discovered in 1961

– See Old Town, the Royal Opera House, the Parliament, the Royal Palace, and the oldest church in Stockholm, dating from 1306, on your walking tour of Stockholm

Day 8: Stockholm – Time to explore more of Stockholm on your own

Day 9: Depart for home