Glencoe, Scotland

Renowned as one of the most famous and beautiful glens in Scotland, Glencoe is also notoriously well-known as one of Scotland’s battlegrounds—site of the tragic massacre of the MacDonald clan 13 February 1692 by forces representing King William III following the Glorious Revolution.

History

Officially called GlenCoe (the glen through which runs the River Coe), the lands were owned by the Clans MacDonald since the 14^th century when they supported King Robert the Bruce.  But when King William came to the throne, many of the highlanders still swore allegiance to the deposed Scottish King James VII.  These highlanders were known as Jacobites.

Glencoe Massacre
Memorial

All the Scottish clan chiefs were ordered by the Secretary of State John Dalrymple to swear allegiance to the English crown by 1 January 1692.  The MacDonalds, who still supported the return of King James, held out, but eventually, with time running out on the deadline, received news from James in exile in France to honor the new order only days before the deadline.

As luck would have it, a terrible winter storm kept the clan chieftain from reaching Fort William until December 31, only one day short of the deadline.  Here he was told that the oath must be taken by a sheriff 60 miles away, and a series of unfortunate events hindered him even further.

Unbeknownst to the MacDonald clan, their fate had already been sealed by Dalrymple, who orchestrated the coming massacre.  Soldiers from the Campbell clan arrived in Glencoe as friends seeking shelter, but had been instructed by Dalrymple to slaughter all MacDonalds under age 70.

Inscription on Memorial

Honoring the Highland code, the MacDonalds gave shelter in their homes to the Campbells for 12 days, until the wee hours of February 13 when the systematic massacre began.  By morning 38 men, women, and children lay dead including the clan chief.  Many of those who escaped died of exposure from the winter weather in the mountains.  A few of the Campbell soldiers gave warning to their host families and broke their swords, refusing to participate in the atrocity. 

The Jacobites in Edinburgh were enraged, an inquiry was held and declared the affair an act of murder forcing Dalrymple to resign, but not until 1695…and the event passed into legend in Scottish history.

For an in-depth 7-part video series on the massacre, watch “The Murder of Clan MacDonald of Glencoe.” Here is Part 1 (9:48).  Simply search YouTube for this title and select the remaining parts to view.  Each segment is about 9 minutes long.

In poetry, enjoy T.S. Elliot’s Rannoch, by Glencoe or Douglas Alexander Stewart’s Glencoe.  The 300-year-old document still exists that mandated the massacre and is housed in the National Library of Scotland.  Hear the chilling document read here.

Natural Beauty

Today, few people inhabit the glen except for those in the village of Glencoe which sits at the western entrance to the glen and features a visitor center maintained by the National Trust for Scotland hosting a 15-minute video highlighting the 1692 massacre, as well as exhibits on the natural beauty, wildlife, and history of the area. 

Glencoe, Scotland 

The u-shaped glen was formed by an ice age glacier and is surrounded by spectacular mountains which are a haven for hikers, walkers and rock/ice climbers.  The valley is 10 miles long but less than a half mile wide as mountains rise sharply on all sides up to 3,000 feet such Buchaille Etive Mor, the huge mountain seen as you enter the glen from the bleak expanse of Rannoch Moor.

The magnificent scenic drive through the area will feature high mountain peaks, ridges, rushing rivers, lochs, and mystical waterfalls.  Of note is the Devil’s Staircase, the Three Sisters, the Aonach Eagach, and 8 Munros.

Enjoy this scenic video journey through “Beautiful Scotland - Glencoe” (8:29).

Modern Culture

The pristine beauty and unpolluted air of Glencoe has been a draw to film makers for over 70 years.  Many scenes from Braveheart and Rob Roy were filmed in Glencoe.

The area was used as the home of Hagrid in the filming of Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and in the James Bond movie Skyfall.  It is noted in the Ian Fleming novels as the birthplace of James Bond’s father, Andrew Bond.

Hagrid's hut from Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban

Jacobite Steam Train

Dubbed one of the greatest steam railway journeys in the world, the Jacobite Steam Train (tour day 3) is an 84-mile round trip through some of the most scenic country in Scotland as we travel through the Western Highlands.

The Jacobite Steam in the Scottish Western Highlands

Our journey begins in Fort William at the base of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak, and ends at Mallaig, 41 miles away on the western coast near the deepest deep seawater loch in Europe, Loch Nevis.  In between, the train passes close to the deepest fresh water loch in Britain, Loch Morar, and the shortest river in Britain, River Morar…truly a journey of extremes!

The area around Fort William, known as Glen Nevis, has been featured in several movies including Braveheart, Rob Roy, Highlander, and the Harry Potter films.  The Quidditch match in Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone was filmed against the background of Glen Nevis.

As the train departs Fort William, it skirts the shores of Loch Eil.  On leaving the Banavie station, the train crosses the Caledonian Canal, and on the right, you can see Neptune’s Staircase, a series of locks to raise boats to a higher level.

Perhaps the Jacobite Steam Train is best known as the train Harry Potter and his friends ride to school, the Hogwarts Express.  Owner West Coast Railways allowed the Harry Potter movies to film the railway and several of the individual cars.

The Jacobite Steam Train subbed for the Hogwarts Express in the Harry Potter movies.

The highlight of the journey is when the train crosses the iconic Glenfinnan Viaduct where passengers get a stunning view toward the Glenfinnan Monument and Loch Shiel.  The crossing takes place at 10:54 a.m., according to the train’s timetable, and slows down as it passes over the viaduct.

Built by Robert McAlpine in 1901, it was one of the first rail viaducts to be built of concrete with over 21 arches supporting 416 yards of raised track. 

The curved viaduct is a recognizable feature in the Harry Potter films.  When Harry and Ron miss the train in Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, they fly to Hogwarts in a car that zooms around and through some of the viaduct’s 100-foot high arches.

If possible, sit on the left side of the train leaving Fort William; you will have a better view of the viaduct rounding the curve and the engine passing over the viaduct.

The Jacobite makes a regular stop in the village of Glenfinnan along the shores of Loch Shiel where stands a monument to Bonnie Prince Charles who raised his standard here at the beginning of the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion.  The stop gives you time to stretch your legs and visit the museum in the station buildings.

Before the train reaches Glenfinnan, it travels through splendid scenery along the shores of Loch Eilt, possibly one of the most picturesque lakes along the route dotted with several tree covered islands where Hagrid (of the Harry Potter movies) is seen skimming stones across the lake. 

Here you will see the Eilt pines, an example of the ancient Caledonian pine forest.  The best views here are on the right side of the train.

Just after Glenfinnan and the Lochailort station, the train passes the Church of Our Lady of the Braes.  Church services here ceased in 1964, but the building was featured in the 1983 movie Local Hero.  [The full movie is available here. (1:51:29)]

At Arisaig and Morar, you can glimpse the sea on the left hand side of the train. Arisaig is Britain’s most westerly railway station.  Morar provides superb coastline views across a turquoise sea to the Isles of Eigg, Rum, and further north to Skye.

The train runs from Fort William to Mallaig on the coast.

The train departs Fort William at 10:15 a.m. and arrives in the fishing port of Mallaig at 12:25p.m.  Here we will have an hour and half for a leisurely lunch break to enjoy fresh fish and chips at a number of restaurants.  It is recommended to have lunch first and then take a stroll afterwards to see the sites including the 8-foot tall fisherman statue at the end of the harbor wall. 

Mallaig offers views of the western isles and provides ferry service to the Isle of Skye.  Some visitors have reported seeing seals in the harbor. The return from Mallaig departs at 2:10 p.m. arriving back in Fort William at 4 p.m.

Mallaig may be our destination, but traveling is as much a part of the experience as the destination, and there’s no better way to enjoy the Western Highlands of Scotland than this spectacular railway journey.

Enjoy these videos of this once in a lifetime journey by rail!

The Jacobite (The Greatest Steam Railway Journey in the World) (3:14)

“Jacobite” Highlights – The World Famous Steam-hauled Train to Fort William (6:30)